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Fairview Dome
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Arsonist, The T 
Captain Fairview T 
Fairest of All T 
Fiddler on the Roof T 
Great Pumpkin T 
Heart of Stone T 
Inverted Staircase T 
Lucky Streaks T 
Lyme Line  T 
Magical Mystery Tour T,S 
Night Shift T 
Plastic Exploding Inevitable T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Heart of Stone 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler, Dave Lomba, August 1980
Page Views: 1,100
Submitted By: Christina Freschl on Sep 3, 2012

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Topo

Description 

Pitch 1: 5.10c slab climbing past 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor at top
Pitch 2: 5.10d mixed climbing past two bolts. Thin lay back through the crux. Two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: 5.10d thin corner of mixed climbing with two bolts. Thin seam climbing. Don't miss the second bolt after the end of the first corner. Watch the rock quality on the first half of the pitch.
Pitch 4: 5.10b/c Slab climbing, trending left, past three bolts up to big ledge with a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 5: Blocky 5.7 corner. Set the belay at the top of the blocks. #1-3 gear anchor.
Pitch 6: The pitch!!! Start with hands to thin hands up to the first roof corner. Lay back up the finger crack. Stem rest when you can. Finish through thin roof traversing left to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 7: Traverse left, place gear in seams and then bust the 5.10 improbable mantle move to the first bolt. Then keep mantling past another bolt to a right ascending crack on easy terrain to a single bolt which you can back up with a #1-2 cam.
Pitch 8: 5.10 b slab climbing trending right to a gear anchor on a ledge.
Pitch 9: Traverse right and pull through steep knobs to a single bolt, then traverse slightly left and then right. Don't miss the single bolts, which is more left then the route suggests. Belay with a single bolt anchor back up with #1-2 cams.
Pitch 10: Clip bolt right at the roof and pull the improbable 5.11c mantle move. When that is done move up and slightly right past bolts. Gear anchor.
Pitch 11: Easy terrain to the top.


Location 

West face of Fairview. Lucky Streaks and The Great Pumpkin are further west.
Descend off the back side of Fairview.
Bailing with two ropes is possible without leaving gear up until pitch 6.


Protection 

Standard rack up to #3, doubles of #.5-1, small C3s down to purple, 10 alpine draws
Bolts on many pitches. Recently replaced.



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By -robin-
Mar 17, 2014

FA: Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler, Dave Lomba, August 1980

Bolts replaced 2012