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Orange Wall
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Heart of Stone S 

Heart of Stone 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring to fall
Page Views: 877
Submitted By: Daniel Coltrane on Jun 15, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Heading up pitch 2 of Heart of Stone, crux pitch.

Description 

Pitch 1 5.7 Climb up and right along a blunt arete to a belay ledge. ~25M

Pitch 2 5.10A Crux pitch, head out left until you reach a long arete and climb the edge and left side of the arete. ~30M

Pitch 3 5.8 Climb up and right on the featured face for 60-80 feet to reach a bolted belay on a small ledge. ~30M

Pitch 4 5.8 Climb this short pitch up and right until you reach the obvious large ledge just below the upper headwall. ~15M

Pitch 5 5.7 Scramble easy 4th class to the low angle head wall and head straight up to the summit. ~35M

Pitch 3 and 4 have a few sections of crumbly rock, but the great position and highly featured granite give this route its unique character

Location 

This route follows up the left side of the middle portion of Orange wall heading straight up from the talus slope.

Protection 

All bolts with bolted belays- 10 to 12 draws and some extendable sling for the begining traverse on the second pitch.


Photos of Heart of Stone Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the highly featured rock of pitch 3 ...
Looking up at the highly featured rock of pitch 3 ...
Getting ready to head up the final headwall pitch.
Getting ready to head up the final headwall pitch.

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By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Awesome climb, great variety and the bolts are well placed. I approached from the North on a very rough ORV road until we reached a section too steep for our car, where we hiked in from. The hiking part of the approach was extremely difficult and dangerous... serveral times we were scrambling across small ledges with 30-40 ft drops. Would recommend approaching from the water.

After the climb, we walked off. It might be faster and easier to approach the top of the climb, rap down, and then climb the route.
By littleman
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

We approached via barker ORV park. Stay left at the Y and drive around. The drive isn't too bad as long as you have decent ground clearance. The hike around the north end is moderate and about 40 minutes.

After climbing Heart of Stone, we hiked over to the top of Post Modern wall planning to rap into those routes (5.9 60 foot hand crack) but none of the anchors (3) were complete. All were missing one or both hangars. Since it was late (4:30) we decided best not to rap off into the unknown without ascenders. Some of Post Modern looks very steep but very cool.
By john bald
Sep 17, 2014

Took Nick's advice to rap in. Four star views and position, two star climbing.
Drive around was fine in a Tacoma 4x4.
Beta correction...last pitch is 40 meters so rapping in with single cord took some adjustment. Recommend two ropes and you would be down in a flash.