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Orange Wall
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Heart of Stone 

Heart of Stone 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring to fall
Page Views: 556
Submitted By: Daniel Coltrane on Jun 15, 2011
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Heading up pitch 2 of Heart of Stone, crux pitch.

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Description 

Pitch 1 5.7 Climb up and right along a blunt arete to a belay ledge. ~25M

Pitch 2 5.10A Crux pitch, head out left until you reach a long arete and climb the edge and left side of the arete. ~30M

Pitch 3 5.8 Climb up and right on the featured face for 60-80 feet to reach a bolted belay on a small ledge. ~30M

Pitch 4 5.8 Climb this short pitch up and right until you reach the obvious large ledge just below the upper headwall. ~15M

Pitch 5 5.7 Scramble easy 4th class to the low angle head wall and head straight up to the summit. ~35M

Pitch 3 and 4 have a few sections of crumbly rock, but the great position and highly featured granite give this route its unique character


Location 

This route follows up the left side of the middle portion of Orange wall heading straight up from the talus slope.


Protection 

All bolts with bolted belays- 10 to 12 draws and some extendable sling for the begining traverse on the second pitch.



Photos of Heart of Stone Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the highly featured rock of pitch 3 Heart of Stone.
Looking up at the highly featured rock of pitch 3 ...
Getting ready to head up the final headwall pitch.
Getting ready to head up the final headwall pitch.
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By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 5, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Awesome climb, great variety and the bolts are well placed. I approached from the North on a very rough ORV road until we reached a section too steep for our car, where we hiked in from. The hiking part of the approach was extremely difficult and dangerous... serveral times we were scrambling across small ledges with 30-40 ft drops. Would recommend approaching from the water.

After the climb, we walked off. It might be faster and easier to approach the top of the climb, rap down, and then climb the route.