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Heart Of Stone 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 480', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter, 9/11/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 473
Submitted By: Little Chamonix on Sep 14, 2007

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Pitch 3


Park at the Univa trail head. Walk south for about 20 mins just passed the impressive amphitheatre of Bongo Canyon.The route goes up a shallow groove system on the left skyline of the buttress that forms the south side of the canyon.Scramble to the top of the dark rock wave, cairn. A good introduction to the slab climbs.
(P1 .Straight up the smooth looking slab to an overlap , over this and continue to a steeper brown rock section ,pull over this and continue up a groove to double anchors,cam protection. 190' 5.7+
(P2. Take the rising traverse to the right and enter the obvious groove ,follow to double anchors. 190'5.5
(P3. Directly above is a thin dark seam ,climb this to summit anchors. 100'5.3R. Register in cairn several feet above anchors. Rap the route


Univa trail head ,see description


small cams to 3.5 friends,stoppers. two 60m ropes

Photos of Heart Of Stone Slideshow Add Photo
Topping out on First Pitch
Topping out on First Pitch
Pitch 2 traversing  out to the groove
Pitch 2 traversing out to the groove
(A)Heart Of Stone.5.7+ (B)Agille Du Tangelo.5.4R (...
BETA PHOTO: (A)Heart Of Stone.5.7+ (B)Agille Du Tangelo.5.4R (...

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