Heart Of Stone
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|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 480 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.7+ [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Layne Potter, 9/11/07|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Sep 14, 2007|
Topping out on First Pitch
Park at the Univa trail head. Walk south for about 20 mins just passed the impressive amphitheatre of Bongo Canyon.The route goes up a shallow groove system on the left skyline of the buttress that forms the south side of the canyon.Scramble to the top of the dark rock wave, cairn. A good introduction to the slab climbs.
(P1 .Straight up the smooth looking slab to an overlap , over this and continue to a steeper brown rock section ,pull over this and continue up a groove to double anchors,cam protection. 190' 5.7+
(P2. Take the rising traverse to the right and enter the obvious groove ,follow to double anchors. 190'5.5
(P3. Directly above is a thin dark seam ,climb this to summit anchors. 100'5.3R. Register in cairn several feet above anchors. Rap the route
Univa trail head ,see description
small cams to 3.5 friends,stoppers. two 60m ropes
Pitch 2 traversing out to the groove
BETA PHOTO: (A)Heart Of Stone.5.7+ (B)Agille Du Tangelo.5.4R (...