Heart of Sandstone 5.11c/d
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c/d [details] |
| FA: | Zac Warren, Roy Suggett, and Phyllis Suggett |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | All |
| Submitted By: | Roy Suggett on Nov 29, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: VERY long route!
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Description Just past the last of three bolts, the crux is getting into the main crack on the face to the right. Then hang on for a LONG ride!
Location Just right of Second Thoughts and right of an offwidth you start in but move right and out of quickly to the obvious line on the right of an attached pillar on the face.
Protection Bring every cam you can beg, borrow, or steal - .5s to a couple of 4s. Clip the first bolt with a quick draw, the second with a shoulder length runner, and the third with a long runner. This keeps the rope in a straighter line and also out of the short crack right and between bolts 2 and 3(see beta topo). Gear most likely is not needed between bolt 2 and 3. If you think you do, then you might want to back off right then and there! Bolt anchor with webbing. TWO Ropes!
BETA PHOTO: Long route
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BETA PHOTO: Upper section
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BETA PHOTO: Lower section
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| Comments on Heart of Sandstone |
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By BSU_Zac
From: Tropic, UT
Jan 2, 2013
| This is a great line that is much longer than it appears from the ground. After the last bolt, is an amazing no-hands traverse that will leave your rear clamped tighter than the tips wide crack you are traversing toward. Enjoy the ever-widening, although not widening fast enough, crack to the anchors. Plug gear whenever you can because the rock is soft and she will spit you out faster than you can fall. And listen to Roy's advice, if you feel you need gear for the bottom section just stay off the route. The bottom is only 5.8ish and Tropic S&R is busy enough plucking stranded German women off of scree slopes without having to come save you. |
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