Heart of Gold  5.10a/b

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Gordon Briody, Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar 1998 Submitted By:  ScottH on Jun 21, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Textured face climbing!

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Description 

Heart of Gold is a fine multi-pitch journey up the bulk of Duty Dome. Excellent face climbing and thoughtfully placed bolts make for a pleasantly hard climb up beautiful stone.

P1. Begin at the left side of a long roof, following bolts up and then right to a crystal-laden slab and the anchor.

P2. Traverse directly right from the belay, following an obvious hand crack under a roof and around the corner. Trend up and right to the anchor.

P3. The meat. A delicate section off the belay leads to 30m of friction face climbing. The burn you will develop in your calves is worth it.

P4. Easier face climbing leads to a belay near the top of the dome.

Location 

To descend, scramble off the right side of the dome, and walk down the gully between Duty Dome and Warrior Wall. Rappel slings are in place on most of the anchors, but rappelling the route after the second pitch would certainly require some improvisation.

Protection 

Mostly bolt protected, with a few pieces up to 1". A pink tricam fits nicely in a runout on the first pitch. One or two pieces will protect the P2 traverse for the second, and a small microcam or alien can be placed for the timid low on P3.

Photos of Heart of Gold Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Heart of Gold pitch	BETA PHOTO: Top of the First Pitch	On the "bubbly slab" (pitch 3) on Heart of Gold