Heart of Glass
|Type: ||Boulder, 12'|
|Consensus: || Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]|
|Season: ||Cooler temperatures|
|Page Views: ||2,020|
|Submitted By: ||tscupp on Apr 13, 2010|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
A little taste of Fontainebleau
This problem is fantastic, I have a hard time not throwing the pad down and getting on it every time I see it. Be warned though, in the summer it feels nearly impossible.
Start with left hand on a sidepull rail and right hand on a sloper around the arete. Put your left foot on a very small/slippery hold and heel hook the arete with your right. Slap your way up the arete to the tough match and top out. Some people start with the right hand on a high pinch too, but I find it easier and more fun to start on the low sloper.
V8 from the sit starting on a low crimp and sloper.
You can see the backside of the arete from the road but it is basically on the side opposite of the road. It faces the swamp.
1 pad is fine, 2nd pad is nice if you come off up high.
|Comments on Heart of Glass
|By Jay Z|
Apr 28, 2011
the foothold for the start has since broke...there's still a nub on either side of where the foot hold was but the one good part of the foot broke off.... it still goes....just a tad more balance now
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Jan 22, 2012
FA standing start- Ed Sewall, late '80s, not sure of the sit FA
|By Sean Kurnas|
May 27, 2013
rating: V4 6B
v4? Sure why not... I think that the nubs Jay Z mentioned have crumbled/polished into even worse footholds since I was last here, but I could be wrong. In any case, I think there are better options for the starting foot.
As promised, a shout out to mystery Dave for the chalk, he led the day in assists.