Heart of Glass  V4

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Type:  Boulder, 12 feet Consensus:  V4 [details] FA:  Season:  Cooler temperatures Submitted By:  tscupp on Apr 13, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The Heart of Glass arete.

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Description 

This problem is fantastic, I have a hard time not throwing the pad down and getting on it every time I see it. Be warned though, in the summer it feels nearly impossible.

Start with left hand on a sidepull rail and right hand on a sloper around the arete. Put your left foot on a very small/slippery hold and heel hook the arete with your right. Slap your way up the arete to the tough match and top out. Some people start with the right hand on a high pinch too, but I find it easier and more fun to start on the low sloper.

V8 from the sit starting on a low crimp and sloper.

Location 

You can see the backside of the arete from the road but it is basically on the side opposite of the road. It faces the swamp.

Protection 

1 pad is fine, 2nd pad is nice if you come off up high.

Photos of Heart of Glass Slideshow

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sam on heart of glass.	Miguel Almeida at the start	Who's got the best hat ?
A little taste of Fontainebleau