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 ADVANCED
The Obsidian Wall
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Black Rose, The T 
Heart of Darkness T 
Negra Prima T 
Traveling Violin Maker T 

Heart of Darkness 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Haisley et al. (early 80's)
Page Views: 662
Submitted By: Larry Coats on Jan 2, 2009

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AMH in what I thought to be the cruxy bit. Photo b...

Description 

A delightful and unique climb that starts to the right of Black Rose. Some slippery and tricky face climbing at the start leads to an excellent crack that combines with critical face holds to keep the rating reasonable. Key placements protect the climb throughout, but at the start are hard to find.


Protection 

The upper crack protects on wires and small to medium cams, but the bottom is the crux for protection. A variety of small Tri-cams and opposition RPs can get you off the ground. Don't miss the horizontally slotted small stopper (#3?) that protects the pull over the overhang.



Photos of Heart of Darkness Slideshow Add Photo
Heather Hayes starts up the tricky start to Heart of Darkness (belayed by Heather Songster). Be sure to take the time to get the protection right, as the moves are tricky and fall would be serious!
Heather Hayes starts up the tricky start to Heart ...
AMH above the runout start and looking for decent gear. Photo by Nestor's auto.
AMH above the runout start and looking for decent ...
Apparently there's gear around here!
Apparently there's gear around here!
Comments on Heart of Darkness Add Comment
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By Tavis Ricksecker
From: Bishop, ca
Apr 28, 2009

Beautiful stone and cool moves. This would be a serious lead but is easily toproped.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 16, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

Looked hard for pro to protect the start and didn't find it -- But, the climbing is mellow to the roof if careful and then relatively poor pro protects pulling the roof (a rattly #3 and a so-so 0.5 BD). The upper section is the sweetness and the pro is also tricky. Would definitely call this not for the faint of heart to lead in comparison with all the other bomber pro climbs here. Small stoppers are key and not falling in the first 20-25 ft is also key!