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 ADVANCED
Slavery Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome S 
Burden of Immortality, The S 
Calm Like A Bomb S 
Colors of Heaven S 
Crown Prince Abdullah S 
EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle S 
Goldmember S 
Happiness in Slavery S 
Head Like a Hole S 
Heart, Balls and Swagger S 
Jackabite S 
Kablamo! S 
Mommas Mental Medication S 
Number One Enemy S 
Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich) S 
Papa Knows Best S 
School's Out S 
Screaming Night Hog S 
Shake Your Money Maker S 
Strut Your Funky Stuff S 
Superfly S 
Wagon Wheel of Death S 

Heart, Balls and Swagger 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Kevin Wilkinson
Page Views: 280
Submitted By: Mike Snyder on Sep 24, 2012

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Description 

The crack and the leftward traverse are cruiser. The giant pockets of AJBT lead you into the left hand crux throw of the lower section. A few more intense moves deposit you just left of the Screaming Night Hog anchors and a pretty good rest. Launch straight up edges and fairly sustained .12+ climbing to reach the anchors.


Location 

Begin with the crack system for Schools Out and Jackabite, but trend left following the undercling system under the bulge. Clip one bolt from Screaming Night Hog and 2 from Aunt Jemima's Bisquick Thunderdome as you move left and onto the bulge. Now go left and straight up into the HB&S bolt line, to finish at the second pitch anchor of Colors of Heaven. Confused? Try it. It makes sense.


Protection 

Lots of bolts... 18 or so



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By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Sep 24, 2012

Always thought this was one of the sickest route names in Tensleep.