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 ADVANCED
Echo Rock - West Face
Routes Sorted
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Battle of the Bulge T 
Cherrie Pie T 
Cherry Bomb T 
Cole-Evans T 
Double Dip T 
Eff Four T 
Falcon and The Snowman, The T 
Fall from Grace T 
Forbidden Paradise T 
Gone in 60 Seconds T 
Heart and Sole T 
Highway 62 T 
Legolas T 
Love and Rockets T 
Minute Man T 
Quick Draw McGraw T 
Respect The Pouch S 
Stichter Quits T 
Stick to What T 
Team Slug (aka Cliff Pounder) T 
Ten Conversations at Once T 
Too Bold to Bolt T 
Tooth Beaver T 
Trough, The T 
Try Again T 

Heart and Sole 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, Rich Smith & Jai Watts, January 1978
Page Views: 7,194
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 25, 2002

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just after the crux

Description 

Fun and varied climbing past bolts which weaves around a small roof/overlap then heads into a shallow right-facing corner/flake to the top of the flake where you'll find bolted belay anchors; single rope rappel from anchors to the ground. Three stars out of five.


Location 

Right side of the face between The Falcon and The Snowman and Eff Four.


Protection 

3 bolts (3/8"), gear to 1.5", bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8").



Photos of Heart and Sole Slideshow Add Photo
Rick Graham tip-toeing across the roof on Heart and Sole.
Rick Graham tip-toeing across the roof on Heart an...
a perfect lieback after fun face moves
a perfect lieback after fun face moves
Tony Bubb puts his 'Heart and Sole' (10a) into sticking to the sunny and slick slab. Photo by Chris Parks, 12/02.
Tony Bubb puts his 'Heart and Sole' (10a) into sti...
Christa Cline starting the delicate traverse left.
Christa Cline starting the delicate traverse left.
Chris clipping the 3rd bolt (c) Scott Nomi.
Chris clipping the 3rd bolt (c) Scott Nomi.
"Heart And Sole" 1979. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Heart And Sole" 1979.
Photo by Blitzo.
With adequate gear in the crack, the thin step up to clip the bolt seemed ok.  Fun moves up and right to the next bolt and start of the traverse left.
With adequate gear in the crack, the thin step up ...
"Heart And Sole'. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Heart And Sole'.
Photo by Blitzo.
Once the feet were in place, a balancy, thin pull on crimps gets you over your left foot.
Once the feet were in place, a balancy, thin pull ...
Chris heading up to the 2nd bolt (c) Scott Nomi.
Chris heading up to the 2nd bolt (c) Scott Nomi.
The key right foot placement makes for an easy step out with the left. Conditions were great this day so holds did not seem slick at all!
The key right foot placement makes for an easy ste...
Mike Holley Entering Layback Mode!
Mike Holley Entering Layback Mode!
Comments on Heart and Sole Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Dec 12, 2013
By Mike Kidner
Oct 31, 2002

The first bolt is tricky to get to, you can put a small cam behind the flake but it won't keep you off the floor. Beautiful slabby moves lead to a secure and fun layback.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 6, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

If you are not used to J-tree dime-edging and smearing I sincerely recommend warming up on another route prior to attempting this. The initial 50' is bolted, but is NOT a sport route and falls could be serious. Additionally, the moves are slick and for non-chalkers (me) were a little funky on a warm day.

By Steven Powers
May 12, 2003

this is my favorite route ive ever done in jtree i love it so much, the line is so f'in bad ass the thin face moves are definatly the crux, but everything is there, a trick i found when traversing back across the roof is to use the under side of the roof for a hand hold made it much easier than using the small face holds in front of your face, once your done with these moves say hello to one of the cool lyeback dihedrals around!!!! oh yeah make sure to leave a long sling at your last cam at the top of the flake to keep it from getting stuck behind in side the flake.

By Woody Stark
Jan 21, 2004

The traverse is slippier than it used to be. Many years of climbing have smoothed down the crystals and greased it up somewhat. Further, some of the finger holds have popped off. I popped one myself a couple of weeks ago.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Feb 1, 2004

This was an excellent route, but I have one issue with the climb. The first bolt is quite high off the deck, which is fine. However, the bolt is one move (and a sketchy hard move) above an excellent stance. Why did the first ascentionist place the bolt above this excellent stance? Was this to keep the "riff-raff" off? It seems like artificial boldness to me. Although the smear I used to get to the bolt felt pretty serious to me, and I remember the move with distinct claritry, more so than if I were climbing past an already-clipped bolt. Maybe that was the point.

By namascar
Feb 2, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb for cold days.

By TraiseB
Mar 1, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route needs a good scrubbing! The traverse is much thinner than I recall and needs a wire brush overhaul! While it is an excellent route, I would only climb it again at about 50 degrees F with no sun. It is slippery at the crux (the traverse??), probably due to the millions of shoes that have traversed it! Still the best route on Echo in my humble opinion. Relatively well protected, but has some real thin sections at the bottem.

By Randy
Mar 1, 2004
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

With all due respect (or maybe not) to TraiseB: Using a wire brush on this (or any) route will only make the holds smoother and more polished (think about what hundreds of more ascents by people with sloppy footwork would do). Keep the wire brush for those home improvement projects.

By Petro
From: Golden, CO
Apr 20, 2004

Consensus Question for the bold...

There is an alternate finish to this climb using 3 or 4 more bolts up the face, in my hasty study of the guidebook, I thought H+S went straight up this line of bolts, and the alternate went into the flake oops...

In the book, this alternate is rated 10b, but it uses the first three bolts of H+S, traversing left, and then right climbing around some ultra-thin hard moves.

Has anybody skipped the third bolt and all that traversing and gone straight up? Any stabs at the difficulty of the moves, felt stout? The pucker factor was high, and I don't think a fall would be pretty.

Any info would be great. Thanks.

Tom

By Bo Johnston
Feb 10, 2005

I love this route, I only wish that the finishing flake was sportier, because it looks so cool from the ground. The sport of the route is definitely in the first half.

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jun 6, 2006

I really found this route to be fun and quite reasonable. I thought the lower section up the roof to be quite hard and thin to clip the first bolt and the traverse quite straight forward once you got your right foot situated properly so the left could step out. The move to the crack was actually more intimidating for me. Up the flake was just pure fun and a nice way to end the route!

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 10, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great climb, the best one on Echo Rock! Sweet dicey face moves below and above the roof reward the climber with a comfortable, easy crack. This one's a must for your tick list. I second the opinion for using a long sling on the last piece (learned the hard way).

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 24, 2007

The moves to the first bolt are no joke. The gear in the flake will not keep you off the deck.

The slab is the main course, while the crack is the dessert. I am glad I talked myself into leading this one. One of the best of the trip...

By TYeary
Administrator
From: Arcadia, Califoria
Mar 5, 2008

Rick Graham and I did this route on 3-2-08. First time climbing with Rick in 28 years and last time I climbed Heart and Sole was 15 years ago. Nice to revisit old friends and climbs. Great fun. Nice lead Rick. Just like the old days(almost)! The climb was as I remembered. Always interesting, never really hard, and most of all, fun.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 6, 2008

A memorable climb that I can still relive in vivid detail, three years after I lead it. Some climbs are like that, this is one of them.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 8, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Did this a week or two ago, and there are a couple of welded cams in there, one right off the deck and another in the bottom of the crack. One right off the ground is going to require some kind of hand tools to get out...chisel, hacksaw blade, something...at least there's a good stance to work on it.

By oldbull
From: Laguna Beach, CA
Apr 6, 2009

I've done this a few times now and it's a great ride. Down low is a little spicy as you are high enough above a .4 camalot going for the first bolt that a fall should not really be in the equation. Not sure about the traverse getting more slippery!? Not really all that bad....and the move getting into the dihedral is cool too! Great and memorable climb.

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Do this on a cool day or out of the sun- learned this the hard way.
Made the face climbing feel a whole lot harder than it should have. Cool route, although I don't think its the best in Echo.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 27, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Led this one today and it's been a long time since I've done it, over 15 years I think. No really hard moves but yeah the lip traverse left felt slippery, although it was over in a couple of moves. I thought the first traverse right was the crux, but I didn't use the underside of the roof, might try that next time.

Wonderful varied climbing, and one of the essential Echo Rock routes.

By Brandontyrrell
Jan 25, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

great slab, its all there just look for the feet, bring smaller cams for the flake and your good to go! (did this climb yesterday)

By Cory
From: Boise, ID
May 23, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Very fun climb! I wish the difficulty would have been sustained for a little longer, the dihedral is very easy (but still fun), and this is a classic! The moves are a little thin, but it's all there, and well protected after the first bolt (which is a little sketchy to get to).

By Joe Hunt
From: Long Beach, CA
Sep 7, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

With Wayne, Debbie & Mike

By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Dec 11, 2012

Ying and Yang!! Great, scary slab down low and Fantastic Layback crack up high!What more could you ask for! The First bolt is a little high but after that your golden!! Ohhhhhh It is so fun!

By Tradoholic
Jan 1, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

This climb reminded me of the Van Halen Greatest Hits album "The Best of Both Worlds", a little DLR, and little Hagar, maybe some Gary Cherone there too. A right hand palming move proved key to reaching the first bolt.

By Phil Esra
Dec 12, 2013

Best 10a-or-under in the park.