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Hear My Train A Comin' Boulder
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Hear My Train A Comin' 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 3,878
Submitted By: david baker on Jan 29, 2006

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Phil bouldering
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Description 

This is an over hanging finger crack that widens as you climb. The first ten feet of this climb is the crux and great practise for over hanging aid. After the crux the climb backs off and the crack widens. If you want to learn aid climbing in relative safety this is a great climb to get started on.


Protection 

Use small nuts and cams up to #2 towards the top of the climb. Two bolts at top of rock for anchor. Easy walk off back of rock.



Photos of Hear My Train A Comin' Slideshow Add Photo
Hear My Train Acoming'
Hear My Train Acoming'
Hear My Train
BETA PHOTO: Hear My Train
Doug's warm-up climb
Doug's warm-up climb
Comments on Hear My Train A Comin' Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a C1

FA was John Bachar's onsight solo.

By G.McCay
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 22, 2006
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Here are some excerpts from an email from myself to JB regarding it's FA:

John,
...P.S. Fill me in on the story behind "I Hear My Train a Comin'" on Mt. Woodson. Rumor has it that you third classed this on it's first ascent. I've always wondered over the years.
==============================================

From: bachar
Date Sent:
Mar 4, 2006, 12:37 PM

Hey Gary! Thanks for the compliments! I'm pretty sure I did the first as a boulder problem but I also could have top-roped it first - just can't remember. I know I did Drivin' South as a bouldering first ascent however - pretty scary!
cheers, jb
==============================================

Peace,

Mr. McCay

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 2, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a C1

If someone wanted to go to the trouble to aid it, today's finger-sized cams will easily get one up in a flash.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jun 25, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a C1

Named after a semi-obscure Jimi Hendrix song

By Ken Klis
Sep 17, 2007

My sometimes unreliable memory recalls Rick Piggot telling me that it had already been freed before Bachar's ascent. Locals had been bear-hugging up an oak tree and reaching out into the good finger locks past the crux.

Then Bachar showed up and onsight flashed it from the ground, and I think Rick told me it was 3rd classed too.

It sent all the locals running over there to try the additional moves.

The convenient tree limb is long gone now. And all this was in the 70's, before I was hanging out there.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 2, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a C1

Here is a cool video of this "boulder problem"

By dtomczik
From: Bishop, CA
May 10, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a C1

Fun and classic Woodson. Only a couple of crux moves off the ground make HMT an awesome boulder problem. Or you can even batman up a rope to gain access to the clean, upper corner.

By G.McCay
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 4, 2011
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Adam,

Thanks for posting the video link...;-)

By Sdm1568
From: Ca
Sep 26, 2012

Nice! I remember helping you film this - I miss all the beta you used to throw at me Gary, and old stories about the climbs. When you're back in SD hit me up for a climb or two