Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Angel Food Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beheaded Burro T 
Eigerwand T 
Gobies for Gumbies T 
Group Therapy T 
Healy's Haunted House T 
Killin' Time T 
Lean Lady T 
On the prowl T 
Purblind Pillar T 
Rebel Within T 
Sandy Hole T 
Stilgar's Wild Ride T 
Tele-vision T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Unsorted Routes:

Healy's Haunted House 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bob Healy, Joe Herbst 1974
Page Views: 2,483
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Oct 26, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Start of p1. Healy's Haunted House.

Description 

It begins on a bushy ledge at the base of a large chimney just right and uphill from Group Therapy.

(P1) Climb the chimney until reaching a ledge at about 135'.There will probably be rap slings at this point(5.7+). Belay here and wonder why there are rap slings.

(P2) The next lead is more than just interesting. I was able to place two marginal pieces of pro here to protect myself stemming the chimney to the jam above; one pulled; I doubt the other would have held a fall. A fall here would result in a bounce off the ledge then a plunge into the dark pit below 30'(5.9). On the ledge above the jam, there will again be rap slings. By this time, some parties will be late; some will be freaked out; and some will have lost all faith in the guide .

(P3 through P5) continue up the chimney/crack system to the top max 5.7.

Descent: go southwest to the gully and down. There will be one rap. The problems with this route are known to the climbing rangers at RR. The route description in the guide could be a misprint as per rating, pro difficulty and length; but I doubt it. The second pitch is deadly without a bolt.


Protection 

Standard rack pg13



Photos of Healy's Haunted House Slideshow Add Photo
Angel Food Wall routes
BETA PHOTO: Angel Food Wall routes
P-2. Fun, if you're not leading it. ; )  <br />Although, Jonny liked it. : ) He chose to place a Big Bro, and not clip the retro bolt, which may, or may not still be there. It's been awhile since we were on Healy's. Climbers beware. <br /> <br />
P-2. Fun, if you're not leading it. ; ) ...
New bolt on p2, Healy's Haunted House.
BETA PHOTO: New bolt on p2, Healy's Haunted House.
P-2
P-2
Comments on Healy's Haunted House Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 5, 2012
By Anonymous Coward
May 5, 2004

Second pitch is seriously dangerous. No way to protect and a horrible landing. There were still bail pro, slings and biners at the top of P1 as of May 2004.

By Woody Stark
Apr 17, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I shouln't have rated this route 5.7 when I entered it in the data base. I followed the guide rating which was an error. The second pitch is 5.9 pg13 vs. Some might justifiably call it X. A bolt should be placed to protect it.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 18, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Guys, that is not 5.9 and it's not unprotected. Take a bro, slap it in the perfect slot and you're bomber through the 5.7+ chimney section. After that, it's easy (albeit runout) climbing to belay. The trick is to go straight up about 10' before the crack in the back of the pod at the first belay- there's a perfect little lip that takes a green or blue (cant remember which) bro perfectly.

Spooky, yes, but not that hard. It's called Healy's Haunted House for a reason!

Oh, and before i forget- no bolts should be added to that route!

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 29, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is OK, not good per se' but not bad either. The second pitch is definitely runout, but I'm sure it could be protected with a big bro as John mentioned. Please do not add a bolt; if you can't do the climb without a bolt then go climb one of the better routes at the grade in RR....josh

By Aaron S
Dec 11, 2006

Hmmm, a buddy and I went up here the other day. We meant to climb Group Therapy but didn't bring a guide book and it sounds like we actually climbed this route instead. The second pitch had some kind of tricky chimneying right off the belay however there was a new looking bolt a little ways up. So either someone added a bolt or I have no clue what we actually did.

By Zappatista
Feb 15, 2007

I did this route with my good friend Benoit Pin "the French Secret Weapon" about a year and a half ago-it was our second route on the wall, and I still think the most difficult I've done in the area. There was a bolt a few feet above the first belay. I've skipped bolts all over when they're surplus to requirements-this one, I was happy about. Chimneys aren't my strong suit, though-longtime locals would probably cruise that section in rollerskates. Felt stiff for 5.7 but definitely reasonable climbing in any case.

By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 22, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It's sad that Woody Stark didn't enjoy this route because I had a lot of fun on Healy's Haunted House today. The 5.7 rating is accurate considering that the route was first climbed by Herbst and company in 1974. Maybe the climb is a little stiff at 5.7 in this day and age.

There is indeed a new bolt protecting the former runout section at the start of p2. I was disappointed to see that. We brought a green #3 Big Bro which protected this section perfectly. The bolt is not needed so I didn't clip it...

This is such a great climb. Pitch 1 especially is not to be missed. Also, the route features three cool overhangs.

Standard rack plus we brought single Camalot #4 and #5 plus the green Big Bro.

By Kurt Montgomery
Dec 20, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is classic and fun. With a set of big bro's it protects well and the climbing is very memorable. I am sad that someone added a bolt to the second pitch right next to a perfect bro placement.

By Kurt Burt
Jul 9, 2010

This is one of the better routes on the wall imho. Sucks that someone would add a bolt to it. IF you don't like the runout do other routes on the wall. very simple. So it is far from 5.9 X the move is 5.7, feet on the flat wall and move to climbers right a few moves, spooky yes, but not that bad. there are way harder pitches on the route then the second, it is just runout. So do some homework, figure out that it is runout, if this is your limit of leading don't climb it. Why do you feel so entitled to climb everything? Plenty of routes in the Red Rock area that have been bolted into submission go climb those. Leave our routes alone. So many of the classic lines in RR have been slaughtered by bolts and cowards. Take up horseshoes or stay in the first couple of pullouts where are the bolts are close together. WOW no that is a rant! :)

By AdamJones
Mar 11, 2011

Will the section above the first belay protect with a large cam (#5 or 6 camalot)?

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 11, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

my recollection is that you really need a bro there- its a pretty big slot.

but, as far as i know, that bolt is still in place, although no guarantees.

By Justin.Trayford
Oct 5, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Did this yesterday with a party of three. This is 5.7 NOT 5.9(unless you do the end variation) and it is not an X rated climb! Big Bro's could be used if run out chimney's spook you but are really not needed. I am 5'10 and 200lbs of fatty so the chimney wasn't scary. If you are smaller, slimer, or just suck at chimney's this might be more intimidating.

Pitch 1: 5.7 G/PG, 130 feet. Climb the pocketed slab on the right side of the chimney to reach a "ceiling". Pull the ceiling (5.7) and continue climbing the steep slab and crack staying closer to the right side of the chimney (one old ghetto rusted bolt on the slab can be clipped but on-demand pro is available in the crack on the right BD C4 #3). There are no chimney moves required on this pitch - much face climbing and some jamming. Belay at the double bolt anchor (right side) at an OK stance in the chimney.

Pitch 2: 5.7 PG13/R, 90 feet. Chimney your way straight up from the belay and about 20 feet above the belay bolts. There is a (loose) bolt in a pod. Clip it if you want. There's really no pro opportunity before the bolt or out but the going feels secure. Move out of the chimney and continue diagonalling up and right past a small tree aiming for the base of a large ledge which the tree is growing out of. Belay on gear. You will see a slung block which I assume people have bailed on (??) or have used to belay off but why? The ledge provides good gear anchors.

Pitch 3: 5.7 PG, 160 feet. From the belay ledge, aiming for the small tree (you will see it's branches poking out) move up and slightly left up the slab with a finger crack in it. Going is about 5.6 with some thinnish cams for pro. Pull the small overhang (to the right with a small chockstone)about 40 feet above belay ledge (~5.7) and continue straight up the 5.7-ish OW/ face climb. Belay at about 160 feet at an uncomfortable stance (it's as good as it gets) inside a narrow chimney next to the tiny, tree. As of 10/4/12 there is a threaded purple cord near the belay ledge.

Pitch 4: 5.6 - 5.7 PG/PG13, 140 feet. Continue straight up the narrow chimney/OW system until you arrive on a beautiful ledge inside the chimney. There is a little slabby parts you can run out if you want or place gear (this is where I'm guessing it's PG13 if you run it out). Belay on gear. As of 10/4/12 there is a 2 nut anchor with purple cord

Pitch 5: 5.6 - 5.7 PG/PG13, 140 feet. From the belay ledge, move up and right out of the chimney following easy but runout face. When you arrive at a "headwall" above, traverse RIGHT until you reach a wide crack/groove (to reduce rope drag set up a belay on gear or just tough it out). Move up the crack (~5.7) until able to move back left onto the face (there's a small bush near the top). At this point you're fighting some major rope drag. Fight your way left for about 30 feet and belay on low angle slabs at two bolts or go a little higher and built a gear anchor for a more comfortable belay.

Variation 5.9..(5.9+?) G/PG: Go straight up from the belay ledge following the narrrow chimney. BD C4 #3,#4, and some smaller (C3's or Mastercams work really well) gear protect this heady finish. The crux is getting around the sqeeze chimney then making a couple exposed moves to get above the squeeze. If you take a moment you will find holds and feet available. Build gear anchor or look for the bolts (climbers right)It would be more comforatable to belay off gear then those bolts.

Descent- Follow the gully out. You will see rap stations people have slung..WHY!? I just don't know. You don't need any of them. Top of gully back to car is about an hour.

Gear- We took BD C4 (1 set of each #1 to #4) 1set of Mastercams (used the purple and yellow) BD C3 (red yellow green) set of nuts and 12 slings. If your ify on pockets the first pitch will take tricams I imagine.

Note: I have done Tunnel Vision, Group Therpay too and HHH is by far the best and most fun. The 2nd pitch is no more dangerous then the run out tunnel pitch on TV. As a whole (minus the 2nd pitch) HHH has more gear placements then GT too! IMO. This is a very fun route and a 5.7/5.8 leader shouldn't shy away from it. Fun adventurous climbing took us car to car about 6 hours for a party of three.