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 ADVANCED
South/East side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Bosker Boozeroo S 
Box Overhang Left T,TR 
Box Overhang Right T,TR 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
Cholla Wall T,TR 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 
Face Off S,TR 
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 
Holy Crack T,TR 
Holy Wall S,TR 
Len's Roof T,TR 
M.C. Epic T,TR 
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 
Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Wildcat S 

Headwall Crack Right 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: year round
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Description 

The crack/corner to the right of No Exit. Gets steeper and wider at top but good holds can be found in the reaches of the crack.

Location 

This is the crack/corner to the right of the bolted face route, No Exit. Shown as route number 8 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection 

Medium to large gear to bolted anchor. A #4 camalot is really nice for the top.


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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A fun route, but be careful of the loose pebbles at the top of the cliff. I sent a whole bunch down on my belayer while groping wildly for a topout jug (sorry, Dad!). I tried to clean some of them off the top as I walked out today, but I expect this work will be erased by the next rainstorm. It may be advisable to pre-hang your anchor slings before leading to avoid this unpleasantness altogether.

A #4 camalot is useful to protect the crux on this climb, though other gear can be found.