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 ADVANCED
South/East side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Bosker Boozeroo S 
Box Overhang Left T,TR 
Box Overhang Right T,TR 
Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
Cholla Wall T,TR 
Dave's Face (a.k.a. Sale at Mervyn's) S,TR 
Donde Estan Mis Pantalones S,TR 
Double Vision / Ream Dream S,TR 
Face Off S,TR 
Headwall Crack Left T,TR 
Headwall Crack Right T,TR 
Holy Crack T,TR 
Holy Wall S,TR 
Len's Roof T,TR 
M.C. Epic T,TR 
Narcissistic Dream T,TR 
Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Wildcat S 

Headwall Crack Left 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Len Margolin, 1971
Page Views: 1,191
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Overlook

Description 

Super fun jamming and stemming in the corner left of the bolted climb No Exit and just right of Paul's Boutique. The crack eats up pro so this is a good lead for those just learning to place pro.


Location 

The corner left of the bolted climb No Exit and just right of Paul's Boutique. Shown as route number 6 on the Overlook route topo photo.


Protection 

In this order: #8 BD nut, #.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #1 camalot, #2 camalot and a 3 and/or 4 for the finish to bolted anchor. :-)



Photos of Headwall Crack Left Slideshow Add Photo
Sarah nearing the top, at the wide crack.
Sarah nearing the top, at the wide crack.
Comments on Headwall Crack Left Add Comment
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By Mark Mathis
Apr 12, 2007

Best route at this grade at the Overlook and often "Overlooked" (please forgive me) by beginners. Also an enjoyable trad warmup.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree, this is definitely one of the easiest cracks at Overlook and a nice lead for a beginning trad leader. It tends to be a bit dirty after rainstorms, but the dust clears out pretty quick. Takes good pro and allows for those less comfortable climbing solely in a crack to stem their way all the way up. Widens a bit near the top, but there are good holds to the left of the chains that make clipping easy.