Headwall Crack Left
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Super fun jamming and stemming in the corner left of the bolted climb No Exit
and just right of Paul's Boutique
. The crack eats up pro so this is a good lead for those just learning to place pro.
In this order: #8 BD nut, #.75 camalot, #1 camalot, #1 camalot, #2 camalot and a 3 and/or 4 for the finish to bolted anchor. :-)
Sarah nearing the top, at the wide crack.
By Mark Mathis
Apr 12, 2007
Best route at this grade at the Overlook and often "Overlooked" (please forgive me) by beginners. Also an enjoyable trad warmup.
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I agree, this is definitely one of the easiest cracks at Overlook and a nice lead for a beginning trad leader. It tends to be a bit dirty after rainstorms, but the dust clears out pretty quick. Takes good pro and allows for those less comfortable climbing solely in a crack to stem their way all the way up. Widens a bit near the top, but there are good holds to the left of the chains that make clipping easy.