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Funk Rock City
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Headstone Surfer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Hugh Loeffler, DeeDee Whelan, 1992
Season: any
Page Views: 2,429
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Sep 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Andy Hansen cruises the starting flake on Headston...

Description 

Why is it called Headstone Surfer? That is a typical question. Check out the chest high boulder at the base of the climb. This used to be perched in the middle of the climb. Hugh says there's about as much underground as what's visible above ground. He "surfed" it out on the FA.

Great route with a stemming crux. It's not over after that though. The dihedral goes on and on and on it seems like. Stellar rock ion a beautiful setting.

Location 

Funk Rock City, near the right end of the wall. You can't miss an acute dihedral with a sport route on each wall and a nice looking crack in the middle.

Protection 

Bring a standard rack, make sure you've got some finger sized stuff for the crux and some longer draws or slings to make sure the rope runs good. I think a 60m rope is necessary to get down. Better take one just to be sure.


Photos of Headstone Surfer Slideshow Add Photo
Headstone Surfer
Headstone Surfer
The Start of Headstone Surfer
The Start of Headstone Surfer
Headstone Surfer
Headstone Surfer
Headstone Surfer
Headstone Surfer
Headstone Surfer
Headstone Surfer
Headstone Surfer. <br />	 <br />Red Hot Chilli Pepper is the rope line to the left.
Headstone Surfer.

Red Hot Chilli Pepper is the r...
Andy in March 2011. <a href='http://www.mattkuehlphoto.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >mattkuehlphoto.com</a>
Andy in March 2011. mattkuehlphoto.com
The Start of Headstone Surfer.
The Start of Headstone Surfer.
Headstone Surfer
Headstone Surfer
Headstone Surfer
Headstone Surfer
the full line
BETA PHOTO: the full line

Comments on Headstone Surfer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 27, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The gear in the crux is not that obvious. It takes a little bit of finesse to get nuts to sit right in the thin crack. Otherwise, super stellar route.
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Apr 3, 2011

That's what she said...
By Budman252
Jun 17, 2012

Great route, and protects well with the right size small gear!