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Lower Grotto Wall
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Before There Were Nine 
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Headless Crankin' Chicken 
Headless Franken Chicken 
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Unsorted Routes:

Headless Franken Chicken 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jay Brown
Page Views: 567
Submitted By: Jay Brown on Jun 17, 2009
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Description 

The route itself is pretty sustained. The hardest parts are probably at the 1st to 2nd bolts and at the end, since you're PUMPED by then.


Location 

H.F.C. is just a few feet left of Cryogenics and has a bolt at 6 or 8 feet off the ground (most will not clip it). Follow the flake/laybacks and then traverse right 4 feet to a sloper/mantel move. It has easy moves to the Fixe rings. This can be cleaned on rappel or lower-off.


Protection 

10 draws.



Comments on Headless Franken Chicken Add Comment
Show which comments
By Scott Bennett
Jun 15, 2011

Fun route, Jay, thanks for putting it up!

By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Jun 15, 2011

Try "Headless Crankin' Chicken .12b". I linked it up on Saturday. Long and pumpy. Give a shout if you head over again.

By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Aug 5, 2013

The route says trad/sport, but no indications are made of needing cams. Am I missing something? Thanks!

By Alvaro Arnal
Administrator
From: Aspen, CO
Aug 5, 2013

Jay has gone back and bolted the section of this route that required plugging gear. No additional gear is required now. I'll update the description.