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Lower Grotto Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Before There Were Nine 
Engagement, The 
Espresso Love 
Grotto Wall Traverse 
Headless Crankin' Chicken 
Headless Franken Chicken 
Ineditable, The 
Knuckle Head, The 
Mad Arab 
One for the Road 
Pea Brain 
Scene of the Crime 
Space Sluts in the Slammer 
Stage Fright 
Stand By Your Van 
Stranger Than Fiction 
Tap Dancer 
Twin Cracks 
Under Pressure 
Under Pressure - Extension 
Unknown 13b? 
Victims of Fashion 
Wire and Fire 
Unsorted Routes:

Headless Franken Chicken 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jay Brown
Page Views: 567
Submitted By: Jay Brown on Jun 17, 2009
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The route itself is pretty sustained. The hardest parts are probably at the 1st to 2nd bolts and at the end, since you're PUMPED by then.


H.F.C. is just a few feet left of Cryogenics and has a bolt at 6 or 8 feet off the ground (most will not clip it). Follow the flake/laybacks and then traverse right 4 feet to a sloper/mantel move. It has easy moves to the Fixe rings. This can be cleaned on rappel or lower-off.


10 draws.

Comments on Headless Franken Chicken Add Comment
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By Scott Bennett
Jun 15, 2011

Fun route, Jay, thanks for putting it up!

By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Jun 15, 2011

Try "Headless Crankin' Chicken .12b". I linked it up on Saturday. Long and pumpy. Give a shout if you head over again.

By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Aug 5, 2013

The route says trad/sport, but no indications are made of needing cams. Am I missing something? Thanks!

By Alvaro Arnal
From: Aspen, CO
Aug 5, 2013

Jay has gone back and bolted the section of this route that required plugging gear. No additional gear is required now. I'll update the description.