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Headless Crankin' Chicken 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jay Brown, Chris Alber
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 634
Submitted By: Jay 1975 on Jun 15, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: H.C.C., .12b.


This is a link-up of "Headless Franken Chicken, .12a," and "Under Pressure's" .12b 2nd pitch. It is a nice, long, enduro pitch with laybacking and a dyno crux.


Start up "Headless...", clip the anchor, then link 2 new bolts into "Under Pressure's" 2nd pitch. Lower down twice or bring a 2nd rope. The connection is only about 5.11.


16 draws.

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By michalm
Aug 10, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Really fun, pumpy endurance link-up. The dyno move shut me down after quite a few tries. Is the key a two-hand dyno off the good edges? I tried static beta off shitty holds and dynos off both low good and high shitty edges. There is now a bail biner on the second-to-last bolt. If you make the move, pat yourself on the back.
By Jay 1975
From: Colorado
Aug 10, 2015

Left hand on the good, hand, right foot, groin level, right hand, black, rounded crimp, and throw to almost into the v-slot.

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