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South Side, Big Enchilada
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Boba Fett 
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Dihedral 
Fourth Sister 
Headjam 
HuiHui's Revenge 
Offwidth/chimney 
Petroglyphs 
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Route 22 
Route 3 
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Route 9 
Three Sisters 

Headjam 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 338
Submitted By: Jason Hundhausen on Mar 21, 2009
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Description 

Begin by stemming your way up an ever-steepening obvious wide slot (this is where the 4" piece may come in handy, although smaller gear options exist deeper in the fissure). Pull through the awkward bulge, gain the ledge, and continue up the broken dihedral (same finish as for Route 19).


Location 

Route #20 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the South Side beta photo.

This climb is also listed as Beverly #22 (5.9) and Jackson #11 (5.9).


Protection 

Standard rack up to 3" (4" optional at bottom) to a 2-bolt anchor.



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By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The easiest way to climb up to an anchor on this route is to begin as for "Route 21", moving left midway up. Probably this goes at 5.8, as it skips the cruxes of either route.

By Steven Reneau
Mar 22, 2010

The route 20-21 combo George mentions, bypassing the Headjam crux, is a nice 5.8 lead if you are looking for one.