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Begin by stemming your way up an ever-steepening obvious wide slot (this is where the 4" piece may come in handy, although smaller gear options exist deeper in the fissure). Pull through the awkward bulge, gain the ledge, and continue up the broken dihedral (same finish as for Route 19).
Route #20 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on the South Side beta photo
This climb is also listed as Beverly #22 (5.9) and Jackson #11 (5.9).
Standard rack up to 3" (4" optional at bottom) to a 2-bolt anchor.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The easiest way to climb up to an anchor on this route is to begin as for "Route 21", moving left midway up. Probably this goes at 5.8, as it skips the cruxes of either route.
By Steven Reneau
Mar 22, 2010
The route 20-21 combo George mentions, bypassing the Headjam crux, is a nice 5.8 lead if you are looking for one.