Head Wound 5.9
| 1,535 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Doniel Drazin |
| Submitted By: | Ryan Kelly on Nov 6, 2007 |
| |
A look own the first pitch of "Head Wound"
Add Photo  Printer View
Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>
Climbs upstream from "Miss Pacman" and "Gameboy" on river right and upstream of "Xanadu" on river left are closed until further notice as required to protect a sensitive, federally listed plant species. For more information, see: www.nps.gov/samo/upload/PublicNoticeCircleXRanch2010.PDF
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description P1: (5.7) Climbs another channel just to the right of massive black waterstreak in the channel of Righteous Babe. A lot of loose rock, I can only wonder how this route got it's name. Considering it finishes at the double anchor I suggest just sticking to Righteous Babe's first pitch, it's better.
P2: (5.9) A great pitch, best finish from the dual anchors of the three choices you have. From the anchor climb right, following the bolt line to a vertical section. A couple of fun moves pull you onto the wall where it eases up a bit. The end holds one more surprise, best moves of the route.
I can't be definitive about the length. I know a 60 meter gets you down with room to spare. Can't speak to a 50m, so I called it at 90 feet per pitch.
Location Starts in a channel about 10 feet right of the channel with the dark watermark where Righteous Babe starts.
From the first anchors go right.
Protection Well bolted. Take 9 draws plus gear for the anchors. Mussy hooks at the first anchor, sport shuts at the top.
A look down the first pitch of "Head Wound"
|
The second pitch of "Head Wound."
|
Banks sportin' the best in soft helmet attire whil...
| | | |
By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 15, 2009
rating: 5.8
| First pitch anchor is actually a pair of Fixe sport anchors. Second pitch anchors are Fixe Super Shuts.
Rock quality may have cleaned up some. We didn't notice much loose rock as of 13 August 2009. Cheers. |
By Wesley Stupar
From: Glendora
Jan 9, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Really solid belay anchors at the top of P1 and P2. The second pitch was really nice. It had a few spicy moments that were fun to lead. The view from the top was excellent. I hung from a big jugger hold on the top rim and looked all around - great exposure! |
By Joe Wysznski
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 18, 2012
| The anchors on top of pitch 2 are loose. They were spinning, use caution. |
|
RSS Feed
24 more...
Slideshow
