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Head Wound 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Doniel Drazin
Page Views: 1,729
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Nov 6, 2007
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The second pitch of "Head Wound."
Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1: (5.7) Climbs another channel just to the right of massive black waterstreak in the channel of Righteous Babe. A lot of loose rock, I can only wonder how this route got it's name. Considering it finishes at the double anchor I suggest just sticking to Righteous Babe's first pitch, it's better.

P2: (5.9) A great pitch, best finish from the dual anchors of the three choices you have. From the anchor climb right, following the bolt line to a vertical section. A couple of fun moves pull you onto the wall where it eases up a bit. The end holds one more surprise, best moves of the route.

I can't be definitive about the length. I know a 60 meter gets you down with room to spare. Can't speak to a 50m, so I called it at 90 feet per pitch.


Location 

Starts in a channel about 10 feet right of the channel with the dark watermark where Righteous Babe starts.

From the first anchors go right.


Protection 

Well bolted. Take 9 draws plus gear for the anchors. Mussy hooks at the first anchor, sport shuts at the top.



Photos of Head Wound Slideshow Add Photo
A look own the first pitch of "Head Wound"
A look own the first pitch of "Head Wound"
A look down the first pitch of "Head Wound"
A look down the first pitch of "Head Wound"
Banks sportin' the best in soft helmet attire whilst gettin' some Headwound.
Banks sportin' the best in soft helmet attire whil...
Comments on Head Wound Add Comment
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By Brian in SLC
Aug 15, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

First pitch anchor is actually a pair of Fixe sport anchors. Second pitch anchors are Fixe Super Shuts.

Rock quality may have cleaned up some. We didn't notice much loose rock as of 13 August 2009. Cheers.

By Wesley Stupar
From: Glendora
Jan 9, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Really solid belay anchors at the top of P1 and P2. The second pitch was really nice. It had a few spicy moments that were fun to lead. The view from the top was excellent. I hung from a big jugger hold on the top rim and looked all around - great exposure!