This white and orange cliff makes up the best rock in Bubba City.
It is only a 15 min walk from Central Bubba access and there is a great selection of routes, both trad and sport.
The Classics Include Little Creatures(5.10d) and Masterpiece Theatre(5.12d/13a Sport).
West of Central Bubba and Ames Wall.
Weather station 2.3 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Head Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Head Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Head Wall:
China Crisis 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Feng Shui 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Featured Route For Head Wall
Stellar Idea 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Head Wall
This route stays dry in a light rain as it is protected by a large overhang above. Climb up broken rock to reach the first bolt at a thin seam. At the second bolt, head left and up to reach a horizontal. At the horizontal, traverse a bit left to reach a shallow left facing corner. Clip the 4th bolt, and make a few reaches to gain the bomber holds below the shuts. ...[more] Browse More Classics in WV
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 22, 2010
Some beta for getting to the Head Wall (as of 8/10): Park in the first Bubba City Parking area on the right side of the road. Cross the road and follow the trail to the power line. Continue down the power line and up a hill until you reach the Falls Creek Trail (Marked with blue hiker signs). Head left and continue to a paved road. (You can also shorten the approach by taking the first dirt road left as you head down the first power line hill. Follow this dirt road to the point where the dirt road meets the Falls Creek Trail at the paved road. The dirt road is marked with several yellow gas pipeline markers.) Cross the paved road and continue down the Falls Creek Trail passing a house to the right. When you reach a double track road, follow it right for a few minutes until you reach an overlook with a stone wall. Continue along the double track road, go left at an intersection, and look for a single track trail that heads down into the gulley to the left. Follow this trail to the base of the cliffs, the Head Wall is to the right (facing the river).