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Head Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Things Considered S 
China Crisis S,TR 
Coughing up Fleming S 
Dreams of White Horsts S,TR 
Feng Shui S 
Great White Shark, The S 
Hubba Bubba S 
Little Creatures T 
Masterpiece Theatre S 
Reaches From Hell S 
Skinhead Grin S 
Skinhead Sin S 
So Freakin' Fun S 
Stellar Idea S 
Take me to the River T 
Tworgasaminimum T 
Verde Bunyan S 
Verde Suave S 

Head Wall Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.09307, -81.09555 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,995
Administrators: Ladd, Chris Whisenhunt, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on May 25, 2007
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This white and orange cliff makes up the best rock in Bubba City.

It is only a 15 min walk from Central Bubba access and there is a great selection of routes, both trad and sport.

The Classics Include Little Creatures(5.10d) and Masterpiece Theatre(5.12d/13a Sport).

Getting There 

West of Central Bubba and Ames Wall.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.3 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Head Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Head Wall:
Tworgasaminimum   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   
So Freakin' Fun   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   
Little Creatures   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
China Crisis   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   
Skinhead Grin   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Reaches From Hell   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   
Feng Shui   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Masterpiece Theatre   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Head Wall

Featured Route For Head Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Move before pulling through the roof

Stellar Idea 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Head Wall
This route stays dry in a light rain as it is protected by a large overhang above. Climb up broken rock to reach the first bolt at a thin seam. At the second bolt, head left and up to reach a horizontal. At the horizontal, traverse a bit left to reach a shallow left facing corner. Clip the 4th bolt, and make a few reaches to gain the bomber holds below the shuts. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Comments on Head Wall Add Comment
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By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 22, 2010
Some beta for getting to the Head Wall (as of 8/10): Park in the first Bubba City Parking area on the right side of the road. Cross the road and follow the trail to the power line. Continue down the power line and up a hill until you reach the Falls Creek Trail (Marked with blue hiker signs). Head left and continue to a paved road. (You can also shorten the approach by taking the first dirt road left as you head down the first power line hill. Follow this dirt road to the point where the dirt road meets the Falls Creek Trail at the paved road. The dirt road is marked with several yellow gas pipeline markers.) Cross the paved road and continue down the Falls Creek Trail passing a house to the right. When you reach a double track road, follow it right for a few minutes until you reach an overlook with a stone wall. Continue along the double track road, go left at an intersection, and look for a single track trail that heads down into the gulley to the left. Follow this trail to the base of the cliffs, the Head Wall is to the right (facing the river).

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