Head Over Squeals
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This is the farthest route to the right on the "Scoop Wall". The first bolt is about 25 feet off the ground. Climb to the bolt using gear for pro if you desire. Up through interesting and varied terrain past several bolts. I remember wanting a small Alien for one of the lower cruxes. I do not know what the intent of the first ascent was but where the bolts ended I climbed on trad gear through an excellent right facing roof flake thingy. This could be as hard as 10a but protects really well with a #1 Friend. Continue on up past this and belay at a nice tree with a great veiw of the beautiful canyon. Walk off easiler to the climbers right. I really liked this route as it has a very old school feel to it and the rock is friendly, rough, beautiful granite.
[Eds. Note, this route was originally entered in this database as English Body. Given the below comment, the name was changed to possibly the original name.]
This route has about 5 or 6 bolts but I brought a rack and used several pieces from small to mid-range. [Eds. This apparently was led with traditional protection without the bolts.]
By nate post
Oct 25, 2015
I think I climbed this route, but there were anchors, it was not run out, and I did not need any supplemental gear placements. Did someone bolt this and add anchors to it? The anchors looked fairly new. I was confused on this wall, because there are at least 6 bolted top to bottom with anchors, and Ben Schmitt guidebook only shows 5 or 6 with one being a variation of Crest of the Wave. Just curious. I also think Ben's guide puts Scoop Deville in the wrong location on the topo. There were two very easy routes in the center of the wall, I think both of them could have been 5.6-5.7, but I wasn't sure what we were climbing until I climbed Scoop Deville, because that route seemed to match the description but not the topo, even though it did seem easier than 5.10c.