Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
River Rock
Select Route:
Africa Flake S 
Drunken Sporto's S 
Head Case S 
Improbable T 
Just to Watch Him Die T 
Karl's Variation T 
Karls Crack T 
Mr. Bigglesworth T,S 
On Safari S 
Spring Break T 
Total Recall S 
UNR Crack T 

Head Case 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Barney, solo, 90's
Page Views: 643
Submitted By: Rick D on Feb 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The Route

Description 

The physical crux is right at the first bolt. The mental crux is getting to the fourth bolt. Feels really airy. Don't go straight for the fourth bolt, but head left then up.

At the bulge by the fourth bolt, be careful. Up untill this point the rock is high quality. It's a little chossy through here, nocked a block off with my foot once. Belayer should be careful.

Location 

To the right of all existing climbs at River Rock. You have to scramble all the way to right of the entire face, then walk back left on the ledge. Belay from the ledge.

Protection 

4 bolts on face, plus 2 bolts at top of route. Mussy Hook Carabiners for chains.


Comments on Head Case Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brandon14
Mar 2, 2009

Fun climb - feels somewhere in the 5.10+ range. A little airy around the forth bolt
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
May 1, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A fun shorty, although pretty easy for the given grade. As a comparison, I found no move to be harder than what's on Africa Flake.

For loose rock, there is definitely some remaining. The climb seemed pretty clean, but the whole lower off has pebbles to medium rocks flaking off.