Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Left wall
Select Route:
24 Hour Crack 
Head Arete 
High Noon 
Tiger Shark 

Head Arete 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,602
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Nov 12, 2008
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Starting up head arete

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

If you have only one day to climb at Acadia, you should head out to the Otter Cliffs. But save an hour or two to head out to Great Head to do this incredible pitch. In contrast to the other sections of the cliff that have committing apporaches, Head Arete has a simple walking approach. It is somewhat tide dependent though, so pick a low tide window to head over or else the start will be wet.

At low tide, the climb starts just above waterline next to the sketchy traverse that accesses the middle part of the cliff. Clip the high first bolt, and then make a sketchy mantle manuever to get established on the climb. The cruxiest move comes at the 2nd bolt, where a powerful lieback gets you on to a beautiful headwall. The next section is why this climb is so classic: tricky, thoughtful, sustained 5.10 face climbing in a spectacular setting. The bolts are never so far apart that you could get seriously hurt, but big whippers are possible. A cam placement in this section helps with piece of mind. The great climbing, coupled with the fact that your belayer is out of sight and there is nothing but ocean beneath your feet, is what makes this pitch so memorable. The finish is harder than it looks, so think about it before committing.

One of the best pitches of trad face climbing anywhere.


Protection 

6 or 7 bolts. A couple small-medium cams.



Comments on Head Arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 30, 2009

A CLASSIC ! You think you may die from several factors but it's really fairly safe and wild climbing.

By jyount
From: jackson, wy
Aug 25, 2010

Full value 10+ climbing. Thoughtful and devious, bring your A game for the onsight.