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Routes in The Northeastern Crags
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Arborist Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Beanstalk Crack, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Big Red Shoes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bigfoot was Here T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Br'er Rabbit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chess With Justin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Don't Tell Tom aka Et By a Bear T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Encour du Bottom feeder T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Farewell Ronald McDonald T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Happy Camper T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Jack Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jolly Green Giant, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magic Beans T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mountain Minor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pick a Card T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shapeshifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sojourn of Arjuna T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Squeeze Box T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Steady Yeti T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Thin Slice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wiessner Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Yeti Beats T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mark Sprague, Jason Milford 9/27/2013 |
| Page Views: | 1,868 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | M Sprague on Sep 30, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Start as for Farewell Ronald McDonald about 30-40 feet right of the chimney /corner of Jolly Green Giant. After the second bolt continue up the finger crack a little and place a good nut with a long sling, step down, then angle left on good face holds to get to the base of a left facing corner with a bolt just below it. A short draw here will keep your rope from rubbing over the sharp arete. Continue up the corner crack with good gear, saving one or two smallest cams for the final bulge below an alcove with a bolted anchor.
Location
About 35' to the right of the sharp arete of Bigfoot Was Here. Look for a couple bolts leading up to a thin vertical crack running through a bulge, with a nice left facing corner to the left starting half way up, with another bolt just below it. The shared start with Farewell RMcD is often wet. It is worth pulling through to the first bolt if needed, as the rest of the route dries quickly.
Protection
3 bolts, rack to 3", some runners. Save a couple thinnest cams for the top. I think I used the old style .1 Camalot (red?) for my last piece. A stick clip or spot is recommended if the start is damp.
The bolts above the first belay is a partially bolted and cleaned (some loose rock to trundle) project link pitch to gain access to rock above.
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