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Hazardous Waste 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson/Pete Steres, 1990
Page Views: 1,568
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Midway up the route.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the warm-up route for the wall. There are a variety of sequences for the crux, some make it significantly harder. It is not the best route on the wall but a decent route with a few interesting moves.


Protection 

Four bolts, two bolt (chains) anchor. The first two bolts of the route have old, thin loooking hangers, however when the climbing gets hard, the bolts get better.



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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 12, 2001

Terrible warm-up. Awkward climbing to a hard one-move crux. Suck it up and do Monkey Wrench which has about three real sloper moves and is more even in difficulty

By Nate Weitzel
Jul 13, 2001

I would have to disagree about the warm up. This route can be done with good moves, no awkwardness, if the correct beta sequence is discovered. If you are pulling a super hard move at the end, keep thinking because you are using the incorrect holds. Pretty much everything up there is chalked, but that doesn't mean you should use all of those holds!!! Monkey Wrench on the other hand is purely an awkward and weird route.

By Nate Weitzel
Aug 8, 2001

Alan:

The horn beta is what I use, and that is why it feels easier since I can skip those nasty little crimps. I hated the route until I figured this beta out!

By Nate Weitzel
Aug 9, 2001

Based on your wingspan you may be average, although if one looks at your climbing resume, it would be difficult to assign the words average to any aspect f your climbing.

By Mark Eller
Nov 9, 2001

Having done every route on this end of the crag now, I agree with the coward. It's not a great warm-up. In fact, it doesn't seem any easier than the 12s. But maybe that's because I always end up campusing the last moves!

By richard magill
Apr 1, 2004

Really fun! Lots of climbing packed into a fairly short route.As for the warmup issue - there really aren't any warmups at this crag.

By Harald Harb
From: Dumont
Oct 28, 2009

Agree with Nate, love this climb, there are no great warm-ups on this crag, that kept me away for awhile and rightly so, but if you want to be a high 11 or 12 climber what a great crag. Some very interesting learning to be had if you are breaking into the high 11 to 12 range. Once you figure the beta this warm-up route climbs well, with really fun moves, without the right beta, it's an awkward, burly feeling climb.

By iancevans
Nov 28, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A fine climb. If you're a solid 12 climber, it's an excellent warm-up. Gets harder as you get higher, so your muscles don't get shocked right off the deck.

By Mr. Nick
Jul 18, 2012

This route has always had some scruffy charm to it...for some reason I have always enjoyed it more than most. Whine-inducing 11d crux up top.

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The third bolt on this should probably be replaced, it's coming out of the wall 1/4 inch or so. First one could also use it, but not as badly.