AKA: "Heyduke Lives" The companion route to Neat has a scary entry move and a couple of tricky wide hands moves followed by a long stretch of cruiser hands with rests to the anchors. I preserved Bloom's rating though the climb as described here didn't seem any harder than Neat.
Climb the chossy first 15' of Neat to the ledge. Move up three or four feet in the slot, place a cluster of small gear (good blue Aliens on the L, questionable green Alien to the right) with long slings then head right with good, incut hands and no feet until you can swing into Hayduke's crack; this traverse while perhaps 5.8 is the business of the climb -- if you somehow blew it, you would swing hard into Neat's left wall. (The first photo in the Neat description, entitled "the whole route" clearly shows the horizontal feature where one traverses.) Once established in Hayduke's crack, consider future rope drag possibilities when placing gear. The crack gradually narrows from #3 Camalots to .75 Camalots.
There is a desperate direct boulder problem start with a lot of wishful thinking chalk smeared all over it; bring purple Aliens. It is somewhat puzzling to me why there is so much chalk on this variation and virtually none on the regular start.
Start as for Neat
Blue and green aliens to protect the traverse, a couple of #3 Camalots, six or more #2 Camalots, 1 or two pieces each #1 - .5 Camalots. Two or three long slings.
the hand crack begins
there are chances to rest
|By Rob Dillon|
Apr 13, 2006
Well Dave, there was a lot of chalk on it when we got there,and I added a bunch more. And still couldn't do it. If my experience is any indication, you can stand at the base of the direct start all day chalking up, but nobody's stopping in the middle of the traverse to dab it up. Eventually I did the usual traverse-in-on-the-thin-crack start, which was a lot easier, despite its appearance.
If you (or anyone) found some purple scarpa slippers up there,please contact me.
From: Concord, MA
Nov 13, 2006
The direct start isn't too bad, but it is hard to protect. Any place you find to place gear will be in one of the key handholds.
|By Will Butler|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 10, 2008
the direct start felt more like 11- rather than the 5.10 rating that bloom gave it. This might however have something to do with the PG nature of the opening moves.
|By Phill T|
May 10, 2010
The traverse is fun if a little awkward establishing in the crack after it. quite possible to set up a tr above the traverse if you swing out on the way down from neat to avoid the potentially devastating fall if you blew it.
As for the direct start, all the gear you can put in is behind a somewhat loose block (looks solid from the ground but its not awe inspiring when you have your hands on it), and while I doubt the rock would pull if you fell, if it shifted just a bit, all of your tiny cams would pop right out.
all in all an awesome route, well worth getting on one way or the other.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Oct 20, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13
Found this a bit easier than Neat. Traverse is more of a mental crux, the moves aren't too bad.
Mar 28, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
a good way to do this route is to tie into both ends of your rope, use the 'left' rope to climb a ways up neat and get some gear. do the traverse and get some gear in 'hay u take' with the 'right' rope, make a few moves to get to a stance, untie the left rope (belayer can pull it down), then keep going with the 'right' rope.
doing it this way, it is well protected. fun route.
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Mar 29, 2013
Slim....That sounds WAY to complicated for most of the people on here
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
yeah, you're probably right :). at the time i didn't know the traverse would be easy - for some reason i thought it would be the crux of the route.