Do any local Coopers Rock climbers know what the deal is with the Haystack block (downhill a couple hundred yards from the overlook)? The Horst guide shows it having a couple bolted 5.10 lines up the 50 foot slab we wanted to get on (uphill side) but when we got there we couldn't see any bolts. Have bolts been chopped/climbing officially closed on this block? I could see the chains were still at the top, but no bolts. I also didn't feel safe soloing the 60 foot arete and would rather lead up it to set up a top rope - if it's still legal. Don't want to jeopardize our access though so we stayed off it and went to another slab over in Rock City. Any idea? The view of the Cheat from there is stunning, and I would love to climb to the top and chill a while, but only if legal. Thanks.
I'm not a local and am very curious as well. A few years ago my partner and I went to do those routes and not only were there no bolts, but nothing on the block 'fit' the descriptions in Horst's book. Our thoughts were that the entire block had shafted dramatically and the whole thing is now one big step closer to it's inevitable trip down into Cheat Lake---that will be quite the 'splash'.
Good lord that thing will cut quite a swath indeed when it does go Alan! The steep pitch of the mountainside below the edge was another reason I wouldn't want to solo the arete even though the climbing is very easy. A fall from there would be super bad... thanks for weighing in.
I am a local. Hayastack, back around 2004 was a stellar, virtually no-hands- 10+ slab block with 3 routes on it. When it started pulling away from the hillside and sliding itself down about 5 feet, the bolts were chopped and climbing was prohibited there. The bolts were either chopped or just hangers removed I haven't looked that closely since it slid.
Its sweet, it's no longer an option 'cept for soloing. Still closed to climbing. Still sweet routes. But not able to be sent currently.
If you're in the area, let me know - I'd be happy to meet up and chat Haystack or show you around otherwise.
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