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Hayden Peak

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Aces High Tower 
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Estwing Crag, The 
Iron Hayden Wall 
Most Excellent Crag, The 

Hayden Peak Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,479'
Location: 40.7333, -110.8496 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,890
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Craig Martin on Aug 28, 2010
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Hayden Peak is located on the Mirror Lake Highway. It is the unmistakeable peak that dominates the view to the East from Bald Mountain Pass. No hiking trail exists according to the Forest Service. The South Ridge seems to be the most used route to the summit and may be the Uintas best day hike. Expect lots of 4th class scrambling, some of it may be exposed depending on the route taken.

Getting There 

Park at the Highline Trailhead in the Hikers parking lot. Locate a climbers trail to the northeast of the bathrooms. There is a tall twin tree stump that is visible from the parking lot looking to the east. This is your trail marker. Follow this trail through the forest alternating between traversing to the north and climbing up to the east. At treeline head up a shallow gully that is often snow covered until mid-summer. When the gully steepens, look for cairns and a trail heading north and switchbacking a few times before continueing its northward traverse. Cross a wide couloir and follow a rough trail up its left side, at the top head north across a short boulder field and onto a ledge system that traverses the west face. Make your way up to the cliffs. 1 hour approach.

Climbing 

In my opinion Hayden Peak is home to some of the best multi-pitch climbing in the Uintas. There is a lot of adventure to be had in a very nice setting. This is a summertime crag to be sure. Climbing on the multi-pitch routes in anything but the nicest weather can be a chilly experience for the unprepared.

A few notes on Hayden Peak climbing.

  • Bring a rack. There are not many pure sport climbs. Even routes that appear fully bolted may require some gear. A good rack for most routes would be a purple TCU to a #3 camalot and small to medium nuts. A few more gear intensive routes exist and a double rack to a #2camalot plus a #4camalot would be more appropriate.

  • Most routes are adequately bolted and/or protected for the leader comfortable at the respective grade.

  • Generally speaking, the climbing difficulty tops out at 5.11+, with many routes in the 5.10 range.

  • 1 60m rope should suffice for most routes. But be careful and pay attention because many routes where put up using a 70m rope and a few 2 rope rappels do exist.








Climbing Season

For the Uinta Mountains area.

Weather station 15.2 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',3],['5.9',5],['5.10',4],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hayden Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hayden Peak:
Stairway to Hayden   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2000'   Iron Hayden Wall
Ruby   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Aces High Tower
Where Vultures Dare   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400'   Iron Hayden Wall
Aces High   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'   Aces High Tower
The Title Track   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 270'   Eddie's High Somewhere
Beer Mule   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Iron Hayden Wall
Send Them to the Iron Hayden   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90'   The Most Excellent Crag
King of Twilight   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'   Iron Hayden Wall
The Evil That Men Do   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 85'   Iron Hayden Wall
Run To The Hills   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 350'   Iron Hayden Wall
Sun & Steel   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 400'   Iron Hayden Wall
Ziggy Piggy   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 85'   The Most Excellent Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hayden Peak

Featured Route For Hayden Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: Run to the Hills Pitch 1

Run To The Hills 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  UT : Uinta Mountains : ... : Iron Hayden Wall
A great one pitch cragging or 3 pitch adventure route.Pitch 1: (5.10a, 90') Pull the low crux at bolt 1 and follow great edges to a 2 bolt anchor. Gear is required in the horizontals between the bolts and at the top.Pitch 2: Steep start to the climbersÂ’ right of the belay using cryptic moves (5.10) past 3 bolts leads to a ledge with a large block on its left side. Continue up and slightly right utilizing some gear placements and heading for the bolts. Climb up the very cool, ste...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Hayden Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch.
2nd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Wyld Stallyns 5.10. The Most Excellent Crag. Hayde...
Wyld Stallyns 5.10. The Most Excellent Crag. Hayde...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another shot of storm clouds and climbers.
Another shot of storm clouds and climbers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jersey on Run to the Hills.
Jersey on Run to the Hills.
Rock Climbing Photo: 3rd pitch of Up the Irons 5.11, 4 pitches. Iron Ha...
3rd pitch of Up the Irons 5.11, 4 pitches. Iron Ha...
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st pitch of Sun & Steel.
1st pitch of Sun & Steel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Umbrella retrieval mission at the Moosehorn. Hayde...
Umbrella retrieval mission at the Moosehorn. Hayde...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Tyler Phillips
Photo by Tyler Phillips
Rock Climbing Photo: The Stairway to Hayden. This is also the general a...
BETA PHOTO: The Stairway to Hayden. This is also the general a...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2nd pitch of Future Artifacts 5.10a, 2 pitches. Ed...
2nd pitch of Future Artifacts 5.10a, 2 pitches. Ed...
Rock Climbing Photo: Location of the Estwing and the Iron Hayden.
BETA PHOTO: Location of the Estwing and the Iron Hayden.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on the Iron Hayden Wall, Hayden Peak.
Climbers on the Iron Hayden Wall, Hayden Peak.
Rock Climbing Photo: Early spring view of Hayden Peak.
Early spring view of Hayden Peak.
Rock Climbing Photo: Run to the Hills.......or in this case maybe start...
Run to the Hills.......or in this case maybe start...

Comments on Hayden Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By drock3
Jul 13, 2015
The Highline trailhead has two sections to park in, an upper and a lower. the two parking lots are only separated by a few hundred feet, but the stump mentioned above is easily visible from the upper parking lot and not particularly visible from the lower. To get to the upper, take the right fork of the road after turning into the highline trailhead.

If you're in the lower parking lot, head to the bathrooms, then head due south to find the tree stump. Once you're on the trail it's super easy to follow.

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