Solid Triassic Diabase bouldering on PA State Gamelands with everything from slopers to crimpers to slabs to cracks on ratings from V0 - V10+. Landings range from good to terrible with most problems surrounded by rocks.
The climbing is entirely in the woods with generally poorly marked trails you may find hundreds of quality, established problems exist, plenty more to be explored.
Friction seems to pop in cooler temperatures making early spring and late fall the ideal seasons for this area.
Be sure to wear bright colors (blaze orange) accordingly during hunting seasons as much of the climbing is on PA State Gamelands.
The main footpath is Top Rock Trail. It starts at the Top Rock lot in the east, goes to Top Rock, and then goes south to the Hangar 18/Mill Road parking.
Teddy Bear, Top Rock, the Glass Wall, Area 15, and Hangar 18 are all along Top Rock Trail.
Hobo Trail is reached by going through Teddy Bear, and further north.
The Caves Trail is a cutoff that avoids the summit. Caves Trail (east) leaves Top Rock trail before Teddy Bear, connects to Gateway, reaches the Caves, passes under the River of Rocks, then Caves Trail (west) returns to Top Rock Trail about halfway between Area 51 and Hangar 18.
Top Rock parking
Use Top Rock for most Haycock areas.
Off of RT 563 turn north onto Top Rock Trail Road. About a mile down on the left is a small parking area. Follow the obvious singletrack hiking trail up to the Trail-split Boulder; go left at this junction for the Caves Trail East, and right for other areas.
After this, trails are generally poorly marked. Look for cairns and blazes on trees.
Hangar 18 parking
Use Mill Road parking for Hangar 18.
Off of RT 563, turn north onto Harrisburg School Road. Turn right at Kinzler Road. Pass a stop sign, park in a small lot on the left, and follow a trail to Hangar 18, the Caves Trail West. and other bouldering areas.
Sit down start on a good sidepull and sloping hold. Move up to a small crimp in the middle of the face and to a weird pocket/shallow sidepull. Make a big move up to a good edge, and then to a pinch and top out....[more]Browse More Classics in PA
I recently moved to Philadelphia and went to Haycock for the first time on Sunday. I was amazed at the quality of the rock, the sheer number of problems and the possibilities for endless bouldering circuits. I have but one thing to ask: would any local climbers please, please shed some light on this wonderful area? Even the simplest of topos, photos, descriptions or links to other extant guides would be tremendously appreciated.
Hey Lars, I agree Haycock is a quality climbing spot. I'm slowly collecting and putting together content for Mountain Project - hopefully others will contribute content for this too.
Rob Holzman's PA climbing guidebook is one of my sources for this (included in the guidebooks section if you navigate to Pennsylvania here on MP). There's one section free online here: www.paclimbing.com/haycock_page.htm .
Thanks for posting about the new guidebook. I actually happened to stumble upon these posts when trying to search for directions to Hobo and I am SO happy to learn about the new guidebook. I can't even begin to count the number of times that I got lost on Top Rock side of the mountain when trying to find the trail/problems! Just pre-ordered the book and looking forward to spending more time working problems instead of trekking through the woods!
had an great day climbing here last weekend, but spent an hour bushwacking back to our car once we got off trail (added adventure, right?) finally got around to buying the guidebook from doylestown rock gym, and the quality is awesome, one of the best bouldering guidebooks i own. the gps will also keep me from getting lost next time! highly recommended, and basically required if you are new to the area
Does anyone know if you can camp in the park? If not are there any recommendations for climber camping in the area?
I am heading out there this weekend from RI looking for something new and definitely want to camp but don't want to pay 37 dollars a night. Bringing my one year old and dog. Should be a good time. If anyone wants to show us around that'd be radical. I am going to buy the guide at the Doylestown Gym for sure as well.
Hey I had a fabulous time out at Haycock! I want to apologize for the giant tick marks left on Gumball. I was going to brush them on day two which didn't happen because my 1 year old decided she wanted to go home haha so we didn't get back there.