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Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon)

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Area 51 
Caves Trail East 
Caves Trail West 
Gateway 
Glass Wall, The 
Hangar 18 
Teddy Bear 
Top Rock 

Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon) 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 970'
Location: 40.4922, -75.2068 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 32,150
Administrators: Justin Johnsen, The Stoned Master, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Dan Allard on Mar 28, 2011
Forecast:
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Description 

Solid Triassic Diabase bouldering on PA State Gamelands with everything from slopers to crimpers to slabs to cracks on ratings from V0 - V10+. Landings range from good to terrible with most problems surrounded by rocks.

The climbing is entirely in the woods with generally poorly marked trails you may find hundreds of quality, established problems exist, plenty more to be explored.

Friction seems to pop in cooler temperatures making early spring and late fall the ideal seasons for this area.

Be sure to wear bright colors (blaze orange) accordingly during hunting seasons as much of the climbing is on PA State Gamelands.

The main footpath is Top Rock Trail. It starts at the Top Rock lot in the east, goes to Top Rock, and then goes south to the Hangar 18/Mill Road parking.

Teddy Bear, Top Rock, the Glass Wall, Area 15, and Hangar 18 are all along Top Rock Trail.

Hobo Trail is reached by going through Teddy Bear, and further north.

The Caves Trail is a cutoff that avoids the summit. Caves Trail (east) leaves Top Rock trail before Teddy Bear, connects to Gateway, reaches the Caves, passes under the River of Rocks, then Caves Trail (west) returns to Top Rock Trail about halfway between Area 51 and Hangar 18.


Getting There 

Top Rock parking

Use Top Rock for most Haycock areas.

Off of RT 563 turn north onto Top Rock Trail Road. About a mile down on the left is a small parking area. Follow the obvious singletrack hiking trail up to the Trail-split Boulder; go left at this junction for the Caves Trail East, and right for other areas.

After this, trails are generally poorly marked. Look for cairns and blazes on trees.

Hangar 18 parking

Use Mill Road parking for Hangar 18.

Off of RT 563, turn north onto Harrisburg School Road. Turn right at Kinzler Road. Pass a stop sign, park in a small lot on the left, and follow a trail to Hangar 18, the Caves Trail West. and other bouldering areas.


Rock Type 

Triassic diabase boulders.


Governance 

Pennsylvania Game Commission State Game Lands 157 .


Climbing Season


63 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',9],['V2-3',32],['V4-5',14],['V6-7',5],['V8-9',3],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon):
Air   V0- 4-     Boulder, 15'   Teddy Bear
Bubblegum Face   V0+ 4+     Boulder, 15'   Hangar 18
3-Star   V1 5     Boulder, 20'   Caves Trail West
The Plug   V1 5     Boulder, 10'   Area 51
Garden Spider Party   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   Area 51
Unknown2   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Hangar 18
Teddy Bear Picnic   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   Teddy Bear
Dubeck   V3 6A     Boulder   Caves Trail West
Bubblegum   V3 6A     Boulder, 10'   Hangar 18
Beckdu   V4- 6B     Boulder, 10'   Caves Trail West
Gumball   V4 6B     Boulder, 10'   Hangar 18
Little Fluffy Clouds   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Caves Trail West
Browse More Classics in Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon)

Featured Route For Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon)
Gumball

Gumball V4 6B  PA : Haycock Mountain (Nockamixo... : Hangar 18
Sit down start on a good sidepull and sloping hold. Move up to a small crimp in the middle of the face and to a weird pocket/shallow sidepull. Make a big move up to a good edge, and then to a pinch and top out....[more]   Browse More Classics in PA

Photos of Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon) Slideshow Add Photo
The beautiful finger crack 3-star (V1) at Haycock mtn.
The beautiful finger crack 3-star (V1) at Haycock ...
Looking for Boulders
Looking for Boulders
Chiba ~ v6 <br />Used to be v4 until the start hold broke. <br />Location: N40 29.476, W075 12.999
Chiba ~ v6
Used to be v4 until the start hold brok...
Hanger 18 trail
Hanger 18 trail
Comments on Haycock Mountain (Nockamixon) Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 26, 2013
By Lars Torkelson
From: Philly, PA
Nov 15, 2011

I recently moved to Philadelphia and went to Haycock for the first time on Sunday. I was amazed at the quality of the rock, the sheer number of problems and the possibilities for endless bouldering circuits. I have but one thing to ask: would any local climbers please, please shed some light on this wonderful area? Even the simplest of topos, photos, descriptions or links to other extant guides would be tremendously appreciated.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 16, 2011

Hey Lars, I agree Haycock is a quality climbing spot. I'm slowly collecting and putting together content for Mountain Project - hopefully others will contribute content for this too.

Rob Holzman's PA climbing guidebook is one of my sources for this (included in the guidebooks section if you navigate to Pennsylvania here on MP). There's one section free online here: www.paclimbing.com/haycock_page.htm .

Rockclimbing.com has some coverage of Haycock too.

By Justin Compton
From: Longmont, CO
Dec 4, 2011

Char Fetterolf is putting an updated guidebook together now. No word yet on when it'll be out. You might be able to locate an old copy of it if your lucky or meet some locals.

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 12, 2012

Justin C., thanks for the tip, I picked up an '02 Fetterolf!

By Justin Johnsen
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 24, 2012

I also spoke with someone at Doylestown Rock Gym [edit: Thanks for posting the full details, Dana!], and the new 2012 Char Fetterolf guide is planned for release in a few weeks.

By Doylestown Rock Gym
Jan 24, 2012

Haycock Bouldering Guide is due out next week. It is a 75-page color guide book, include GPS coordinates, easy to use rating scale and much more!

Pre-Order sale going on now until Jan 29, 2012. Pick it up for only $25 (MSRP $30).

Reserve Your Copy Today!

By Tim Quick
Feb 1, 2012

Thanks for posting about the new guidebook. I actually happened to stumble upon these posts when trying to search for directions to Hobo and I am SO happy to learn about the new guidebook. I can't even begin to count the number of times that I got lost on Top Rock side of the mountain when trying to find the trail/problems! Just pre-ordered the book and looking forward to spending more time working problems instead of trekking through the woods!

By Brian Monetti
From: NYC
May 23, 2013

had an great day climbing here last weekend, but spent an hour bushwacking back to our car once we got off trail (added adventure, right?) finally got around to buying the guidebook from doylestown rock gym, and the quality is awesome, one of the best bouldering guidebooks i own. the gps will also keep me from getting lost next time! highly recommended, and basically required if you are new to the area

By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Jun 21, 2013

Does anyone know if you can camp in the park? If not are there any recommendations for climber camping in the area?

I am heading out there this weekend from RI looking for something new and definitely want to camp but don't want to pay 37 dollars a night. Bringing my one year old and dog. Should be a good time. If anyone wants to show us around that'd be radical. I am going to buy the guide at the Doylestown Gym for sure as well.

Thanks!

By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Jun 26, 2013

Hey I had a fabulous time out at Haycock! I want to apologize for the giant tick marks left on Gumball. I was going to brush them on day two which didn't happen because my 1 year old decided she wanted to go home haha so we didn't get back there.