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 ADVANCED
l. Hawk's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crack Magic T,TR 
Hawk's Neck T,TR 
Hawk's Nest (P1) T,TR 
Hawk's Nest (P2 left) T 
Hawk's Nest (P2 middle) T 
Hawk's Nest (P2 right) T 
Welcome to Stover S,TR 

Hawk's Nest (P1) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: George Austin and Roland Machold, 1954
Page Views: 1,318
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Sep 2, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: The start of Hawk's Nest.

Description 

The first pitch of Hawk's Nest is a fun, quality climb for its grade and location. Climb up a dihedral to a ceiling, and traverse left a short distance to its end. From there, follow a crack straight up, and traverse left along a ledge to a bolted belay directly over Hawk's Neck (if you don't see it at first, look on the left/far side of a rock protrusion - then there's no missing it).

"The opening moves often have wet feet. These can be bypassed and protected, but it ups the ante a little bit. After the seep, it's the best gear and best climb of it's grade at Stover." [-Larry S]

Three variations for the section pitch wait above.

Both pitches can also be combined into one pitch with a 60 m rope.

Location 

Hawk's Nest starts right off the belay trail, at a vertical open book to the right of Welcome to Stover/Hawk's Neck, and left of Marty Broke It. The adventurous can get off the first pitch with a class 4 traverse to the west and downclimb of a dirty gully; otherwise, rappel off.

Protection 

The first pitch is easy to protect, the second is not. A toprope anchor set from the bolts on top of the first pitch can produce a swing, remedy this with a cam or two to extend the rope to the right.


Photos of Hawk's Nest (P1) Slideshow Add Photo
P1 - Green to the chains.  Original P2 follows Yellow through a dirty erosion gully that needs wide gear.  Purple and blue are alternative top pitches that offer better climbing and gear in the 5.8 range, though the rock is not that good up there.
BETA PHOTO: P1 - Green to the chains. Original P2 follows Yel...
Brett leads pitch 1 of Hawk's Nest.
BETA PHOTO: Brett leads pitch 1 of Hawk's Nest.

Comments on Hawk's Nest (P1) Add Comment
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By Larry S
Sep 1, 2011

The opening moves often have wet feet. These can be bypassed and protected, but it ups the ante a little bit. After the seep, it's the best gear and best climb of it's grade at stover. (just pitch 1)