Dogwood never looked so cool! Nice shot of Anita Brueski. Water is either too high (and a boat would be crazy) or low enough that a boat isn't required (after spring runoff).
By Matthew Oliver From: Salt Lake City Aug 17, 2010 rating: 5.9-5c17VI16HVS 4c
I love to do this climb in early June. The water is so high that starting from the water is impossible. Rather I climb the first 20 ft of Take Me to the River, just past the washed part, and trav left to just below the roof. Beware of traffic though, people are not to keen on you using the first bolt of Take Me to the River well the rest is empty, and I have had some one climb it well I was still clipped into the first bolt. Let me just say I was pretty pissed when I got down...
Lead "going bald" first, pulled the rope and lead this second. I felt this was nearly as challenging a lead as the upper portion is a little polished and there are a few spots with 2 finger crimpers and small foot edges. The first bolt is shared with "going bald, but this creates a big zig zag in your rope. After clipping the second bolt, I slid over and removed the first draw so my belayer was directly below me and not standing next to the water.
Bring a big tarp and you can get a good stance about 5 feet to right of directly below the first bolt. Place the tarp in the shallow section of creek between a few rocks and there are some nicely shaped rocks to stand on. Also helpful to have a spotter for the first clip and your longest runner.