Have a Beer with Fear 

First bolt is bad on this route! It's noticeably sticking out of the wall. The rest of the bolts are spinners. The anchor is good.

every bolt where one might fall on this route is terrible and badly in need of replacing. good line.

thanks for the heads up guys, we're aware of this and hope to get out and replace the bolts soon. will update this page when it happens.

awesome john, glad to see guys taking care of their local areas. drop me a line if you're ever in denver!

-eric

On 5/19/10 the LVCLC and ASCA replaced the first three bolts on this route, the first two of which were moved due to rock quality and clipping stance concerns. All the new bolts are 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece.

The first bolt was moved to the left to facilitate clipping from the left side of the bulge with the right hand. Some folks go up on the right, and I did try to allow for clipping from that side as well, but the rock and stance dictated the bolts position to favor the left side more than the right.

And yeah, 1/2" is standard for replacement here, but to be honest, in that rock, i would have preferred even bigger!

Edit: It has come to our attention that the first bolt on this route is a little high- it was placed there in order to prevent hitting the slab if one were to fall at the crux. A stick clip is recommended for shorter people who dont feel comfortable with the opening moves.

There is definitely some commitment involved in getting to the first bolt. The route somehow flows well with the bolting placements. If pushing the grade heed John's advice.

I climbed this route with 2 different variations for the crux sequence. Both sequences felt like 11c to me, so I'm not sure why this is rated 11a. Nonetheless, it's a great climb and I'd recommend it. The bolting was fine for me.

I think this thing shed a key jug as you pull onto the overhanging headwall recently- I've watched some folks do it recently and it looked way harder than I remember it being. I remember the crux being passing the first bolt and then it was cruiser jugs to the chains.

Really cool route. With the broken jug, it feels more like 11b using the holds on the left and 11c using the crimpers straight up past the third bolt.