Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Cottonwood Creek (Sherman to Cuba Gulch)
Select Route:
Havana Nights 
Open Casket / Closed Casket 
Señor Presidente 
Sherman Climb 
Unknown WI3 

Havana Nights 


Type:  Ice, 2 pitches, 180'
Original: WI5- [details]
Page Views: 546
Submitted By: clay meier on Nov 4, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Clay Meier on P1 in poor conditions.


Havana Nights is a long ribbon of ice that comes down only a few hundred yards to climber's right of Señor Presidente. Although Jack Roberts book mentions a WI3 approach pitch (which he says can be bypassed by skirting the left side of the climb), this pitch was not there in November of '13.

P1 started with a long pitch of WI5- up a pillar to a curtain then a slab and a belay off of rock pro on the right side(50m).

P2 involved a mixed start and then 50' of WI4 curtain followed by small steps separated by ledges to a tree belay (60m).

As we climbed this climb in November with very thin conditions, ascents later in the year can expect another pitch above and possibly below the description above. Ascents later in the year can probably leave the rock gear at home.


Head approximately 4.5 miles past the Cataract Gulch TH up CR18x past Sherman Falls. After about 4 miles, you will pass an old, rusty truck full of bullet holes on the left or S side of the road. At this point, the canyon begins to open up. Continue up the road, and you will see beaver ponds down to your left and a cliff band up to your right (south-facing). When you get to where the canyon begins to fork, look up on the cliff to your right, and you will see a really big flow on the left (Señor Presidente) and a smaller ribbon and pillar to your right. This ribbon and pillar on the right is Havana Nights (according to Jack's book, there may also be a third climb farther to the right called Cuba Libre - this was not in at the time of our ascent). The climbs are very hard to miss, so if you don't see them, you probably haven't gone far enough.


Screws, stubbies, a few small cams and pins if it's early in the season.

Photos of Havana Nights Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Havana Nights.
Havana Nights.

Comments on Havana Nights Add Comment
Show which comments
By clay meier
Nov 5, 2013

This climb faces south but gets afternoon shade. Also I rated it [four] stars because of the overall experience. Cool views' great climbing' a good full day outing. Also this climb had more interesting technical climbing than many other routes nearby (such as those found in Cataract and farther down the road towards Sherman).

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!