||Ice, 2 pitches, 180'
|Original: ||WI5- [details]|
|Page Views: ||554|
|Submitted By: ||clay meier on Nov 4, 2013|
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Clay Meier on P1 in poor conditions.
Havana Nights is a long ribbon of ice that comes down only a few hundred yards to climber's right of Señor Presidente
. Although Jack Roberts book mentions a WI3 approach pitch (which he says can be bypassed by skirting the left side of the climb), this pitch was not there in November of '13.
P1 started with a long pitch of WI5- up a pillar to a curtain then a slab and a belay off of rock pro on the right side(50m).
P2 involved a mixed start and then 50' of WI4 curtain followed by small steps separated by ledges to a tree belay (60m).
As we climbed this climb in November with very thin conditions, ascents later in the year can expect another pitch above and possibly below the description above. Ascents later in the year can probably leave the rock gear at home.
Head approximately 4.5 miles past the Cataract Gulch TH up CR18x past Sherman Falls. After about 4 miles, you will pass an old, rusty truck full of bullet holes on the left or S side of the road. At this point, the canyon begins to open up. Continue up the road, and you will see beaver ponds down to your left and a cliff band up to your right (south-facing). When you get to where the canyon begins to fork, look up on the cliff to your right, and you will see a really big flow on the left (Señor Presidente
) and a smaller ribbon and pillar to your right. This ribbon and pillar on the right is Havana Nights (according to Jack's book, there may also be a third climb farther to the right called Cuba Libre - this was not in at the time of our ascent). The climbs are very hard to miss, so if you don't see them, you probably haven't gone far enough.
Screws, stubbies, a few small cams and pins if it's early in the season.
By clay meier
Nov 5, 2013
This climb faces south but gets afternoon shade. Also I rated it [four] stars because of the overall experience. Cool views' great climbing' a good full day outing. Also this climb had more interesting technical climbing than many other routes nearby (such as those found in Cataract and farther down the road towards Sherman).