Hats Off 5.12a/b
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Description Hats Off is located on Rock of Ages.
P1. Climb the first pitch of Days of Heaven and belay.
P2. Do the first few moves of the second pitch then continue straight up a thin tips crack (12a). Climb up this seam until you are eye level with a row of grips heading right. Place a good piece of gear high in the crack and campus right. The hand holds are pretty good, but the feet really suck. One can place a medium wire about halfway out the traverse. Continue traversing until you slab out on the far right shoulder of the cliff. The gear on this route is not easy to place. The RPs and TCUs are all solid but require some jiggery-pokery.
Hats Off is a hard route to on-sight! One has to be good at placing small pro and moderately bold. The crux pitch is a good candidate for a pre-load. There is no fixed anchor on top.
Descend down the east slabs.
Protection This route requires small TCUs and RPs. Double up on TCUs purple through yellow. Several #4 and #5 RPs would also be a good idea.
Jeremy Collins puzzles out the technical section o...
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2004
rating: 5.12b PG13
| The route is really cool and really unique--The crack is truly hard. I don't know how hard, but HARD. The 12b grade sounds reasonable. The traverse might feel hard, but isn't very. Think in terms of the traverse coming out of the roof of Jack The Ripper in Eldo, but twice as long and not as steep. The holds are positive and the feet are non-existent, but the rock allows some friction. I don't think it would get 5.11 if you were not already pumped from the crux at the crack. Very cool though. Presently there is a fixed wire on it at a convenient place to clip--seems so-so and would most likely hold (another?) fall. |
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