Hatfields and McCoys
||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
|Original: || YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA: ||Ryan Kelly, T. Murphy, Tucker Tech, Marcella, and T. Sartin|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,021|
|Submitted By: ||Murf on Nov 8, 2010|
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H and M
This route is actually a variation to The Real McCoy
, and a great addition to the face. Start up the off hands crack on the far left side of the face to the large ledge. Using good holds, lean out and clip the first bolt. A couple of options lead to a stance where gear is found. Clean rock leads past two more bolts to the crux. Climbing directly on the arete keeps the grade in check. Staying to the right of the last bolt is harder, but a bit contrived. Much easier climbing leads to the top.
This route starts on the off hands crack on the left side of the formation (same as the Hatfield Arete).
3 bolts, .5,#3, #4 Camalot, small nuts and a selection of small cams for the route. Hand size for the anchor.
From: Oakland CA
Nov 8, 2010
4 star instant classic!
May 2, 2011
Nice fun route and a worthy addition to the face. Maybe 3 of 5 stars.