There are more great 5.12s at the Cirque than you may initially realize. The quality of this route will likely surprise you. It doesn't have the best stone that the cirque has to offer, but the movement makes up for the slightly inferior stone.
Begin by negotiating an easy lie back section up a big flake. The major difficulties are encountered starting at the third bolt. Get ready for back to back dynamic moves. The second jump move to an ergonomic hand sized pocket is the highlight of the route. After sticking the pocket carefully traverse left (and slightly downward) on small edges. A juggy side pull romp takes you to the last bolt where you must decide which sequence to use to get to the anchor. Don't worry, the top is easier than it appears no matter which way you go.
This route is all the way at the right end of the cirque. Hike along the cliff and just after you pass under the permadraws of the "Freedom Tree" you'll notice the chalked line.
8 bolts + anchor. Currently chains draws on #4 and #8 for cleaning purposes.
|By Chris Whisenhunt|
From: Fayetteville, WV
Feb 4, 2014
This thing boils down to 2 big moves and then pretty easy climbing. The roof looks intimidating, but like Fred said in the description it's way easier than you think.