"Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+)  5.11 A2+ R

1,884 page views Good page? (4 likes)

Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2600 feet, Grade VI Consensus:  5.11 A2+ [details] FA:  Francisco Parada,Felipe Gonzales Donoso (Chileans) New Route:  Yes Season:  Summer,January-February-2009 Submitted By:  Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Topo "Hasta Chonchi" East face North Tower(Torres ...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

We think this route is the 3rd on the east face of the north tower
The route follows 3 mains dihedrals then goes through a large overhanging section on the top part of the wall. We were climbing for 11 days with one mandatory stop for 3 days for bad weather, most of the climbing was very icy and we were forced to aid a lot of pitches. We climbed to the top of pitch 5 and made a camp for the next 11 days. It was the only natural refuge on the wall, protecting us from common rockslide. We fixed 3 ropes to the top of pitch 8 with intentions to try an alpine attack from pitch 8 to the summit. The next day we climbed for 18 hrs in bad weather almost reaching the west face of the tower. We stopped climbing after opening 7 more pitches about 150 or 200 meters from the summit, not knowing if we would have time or the weather conditions for another attempt.

Camp at pitch 5 Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

Base of the route Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

Chino Climbing 3 pitch Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

Felipe Cleaning 3 pitch Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

Base Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

none Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

none Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

Pitch 8 Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

none Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

Bad Weather Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

none Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

none Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

none Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

none Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

pitch10 Submitted By: Francisco Parada on Sep 25, 2010

Location 

East Face Noth tower (Torres del Paine National Park,Chile)

Protection 

All Anchors have a 3 inch bolt and pitons. At pitch 5 you can set your camp and collect water.

Photos of "Hasta Chonchi" East Face Torre Norte (VII,800 meters,5.11,A2+) Slideshow

Add Photo

Chapita and Felipe	chapa	Preparando todo.
none	Chino,Claudio y Chapa	Felipe,Mono,Chapa,Claudio y Drew
Morrena	Bivy de los belgas	Febrero-2010
Luchito Y Manuelete -2009	Febrero 2010	Febrero-2010
Febrero-2010	none	none
none	none	none
none	camp	Laguna Torres
none	chino	none
none	portaledge	none
none	Belgas en Sudafrican Route Central tower	Belga Camp Central Tower
Sudafricana Route Central Tower	Up !!!!!	none
none	none	none
none	none	Just rock!!!
BETA PHOTO: topo	Torres del Paine