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This route is on The Griddle which is the first formation you reach when hiking up to Sun Spot Crags. It has three distinct cruxes. Start on rocks at base of low angle left leaning corner with pale SMC hangers. After first SMC hanger on the old route Hardboiled 5.9- clip a Fixe bolt on the right face. A small cam or nut will make this a bit less frightful. Follow left leaning ramps to tricky bulge. The 5.6 chimney can be protected with a hand sized cam. Climb steep face and after clipping a chain draw pull on to overhanging headwall and head to the anchors. The two run out sections were not bolted to maintain the integrity of the existing route Hard Boiled 5.9- which stays left of the chimney until you can hand traverse an angling crack into the chimney above the bulge.
Bolts Finger sized piece gets you to the first fixe hanger of Hashbrowns. One hand sized cam makes easy chimney safe.
Sketchy rock down low is the only thing taking awa...
|By Windy Pete|
Nov 6, 2011
Good route. Would've been easier had I used the chimney to clip the next bolt above it... Leave the gear on the ground if you want a little more pucker. Encountered a few holds that felt a little loose. Enjoyed the different climbing styles needed for this one.