BETA PHOTO: Has Been is the face between Wobbly Dihedral and C...
Has Been exists in the face between Wobbly D and Chez's Chimney. It is an exceptional route considering how often it is overlooked. Basically the idea is to thrutch up the face towards the giant cobble 2/3 of the way up on the left side of the route. Once the cobble is attained the route softens, but until then it is a stiff endeavor.
Most people will want a TR, but thin gear will help for those bold enough to lead.
The name was Sangdahl's response to my poor attempts at drunken humor one night in the Avalon- I had foolishly (and erroneously) called the DLFA a "bunch of has-beens". Steve led this route the next day, and made me a member of the DLFA the following week.
Has Been starts with some underclings into a few reachy moves. The climb slowly moves left on the face until you reach the middle. This is the crux. Figuring out the sequence here is key. Once you get into it, a few small crimps will pull you through to the large cobble. Once the cobble is reached, the climbing is much easier, around 5.9 or so.
By Tradoholic Aug 6, 2009 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b PG13
Yea, definitely overlooked. I went for the OS but whipped on the only good gear on the route, thankfully.
The first horizontal is where the good gear is, this will protect the crimpy crux to a nice ledge for a no hands rest. The next horizontal provides one good C3 and the climbing eases considerably from there. "R" rated for the runout.
Rhoads how well could you sow this up? Did you give it pg 13 because of what you found on the onsight, or do you think its some what sketchy no matter what?
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Jul 19, 2011 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
Strong, I think we should both try to OS this thing. It'd be a good outing at Old Sandstone and while we're at it... I'll lead Mammalary Magic too. Gotta do that before I head to Vegas. But, the gear on this thing looks good just probably spaced out and perhaps even R rated considering the top is mellower climbing (it looks) without gear.
By Tradoholic Jul 20, 2011 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b PG13
There's the decent pro right before the crux but it runs out from there. I can't recall exactly but I think I said PG-13 because the climbing is easier after the crux.
My ratings are always based on the lead, so yea, it's sketchy.
MM is "x" rated, I wouldn't advise an OS on that one.
You can fiddle some gear in on MM at the start. Also... above the manky bolt you can step right breifly and get a piece (can't remember what but it was pretty good) in the crack thing to the right (put a long sling on it) then step back left and do the face/slab climbing of the route proper. It isn't a purist approach but would eliminate the X factor....
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Jul 21, 2011 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b
Nothing eliminates the X factor when Jungle Dog and myself get together. However, I've sussed gear on MM and to eliminate the true X factor I placed a .75 to the right of that bomber bolt. Definitely wouldn't advise an OS of MM either! Thanks for the beta.
By Tradoholic Jul 21, 2011 rating: 5.10c6b20VII20E2 5b PG13
Lead MM OS just utilizing the bolt for gear and you have done your duty..... after that you can reach over into that crack off to the right and get some proper protection....you could maybe duct tape a small diameter spectra sling over that inbedded pebble too.