|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 250'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||andrewjessee1 on Sep 26, 2010|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Harvey's Wallbangers, Right||Add Comment|
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From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 15, 2010
Route is worth doing if you're trying to break away from 5.5-5.6 trad.
First pitch is dirty till about half way up, then it follows a pretty fun crack about 40 feet till 2nd pitch. From there, burn up the rest of the crack to a couple of awkward bulges. First one requires some nice jamming skills and high feet. Second (the "5.7" ) bulge will scare you if you're only looking at the tiny dike running parallel with the crack. Look to the right for a solid crack, then do a horizontal pull up (beach whale) or with finesse, then it's sent.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Fun liebacking with a fun roof. A #4 C4 will protect the crux move. I always felt the first bulge was the crux, while the second was relatively tame. Just follow Michael's beta and you should be fine.|
By James Cranston
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I did this early March when there was still snow from the previous weekend. We started on Harvey's left and retreated because of ice after a few pieces up.
The first pitch of Harvey's right is pretty straightforward with some liebacks. Try to construct the belay closer to the crux on pitch 2 to minimize drag. Being the scared 5.7 trad climber I am, I was intimidated by the crux bulge and thus avoided it by traversing over to Harvey's left right before the crux. You can do this by delicately finding feet on small dikes. There is a bulge on the left route to that I beach-whaled but much less scary than the 5.7 crux. If you do this, bring LONG slings as there will be a lot of rope drag. Or just do the regular route.