|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 250'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||andrewjessee1 on Sep 26, 2010|
|Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Harvey's Wallbangers, Right||Add Comment|
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From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 15, 2010
Route is worth doing if you're trying to break away from 5.5-5.6 trad.
First pitch is dirty till about half way up, then it follows a pretty fun crack about 40 feet till 2nd pitch. From there, burn up the rest of the crack to a couple of awkward bulges. First one requires some nice jamming skills and high feet. Second (the "5.7" ) bulge will scare you if you're only looking at the tiny dike running parallel with the crack. Look to the right for a solid crack, then do a horizontal pull up (beach whale) or with finesse, then it's sent.
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Fun liebacking with a fun roof. A #4 C4 will protect the crux move. I always felt the first bulge was the crux, while the second was relatively tame. Just follow Michael's beta and you should be fine.|