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 ADVANCED
North Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dancing Feet T 
Deception T 
Deception Direct T 
Harvey's Wallbangers Left T 
Harvey's Wallbangers, Center T 
Harvey's Wallbangers, Right T 
Knapsack Crack T 
Manic Depressive Direct T 
Reds Delight T 
Spam Sandwich T 
Wave Rider T 

Harvey's Wallbangers, Center 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,096
Submitted By: Jerry Cagle on Jul 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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First belay on Wallbangers center. Baby rattler ha...

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Description 

The traverse on P1 is a tad brushy... You'll know you're on Center when you do this traverse. Going straight up would take you onto Harvey Wallbangers Right.

Location 

Right of Deception. Climb up some 3rd/4th class slabs to an obvious LARGE pine tree to start P1. You can't miss it.

Protection 

Gear. Nuts and Cams.


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By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Not the best route here, but a fun outing if the other routes are crowded. The short first pitch has some dusty loose rock so be careful. After that, the rock quality improves quite a bit. Fun bulges at the top: a mantel followed by a bulge with a handcrack. Resist the temptation to bail to the right onto easier ground.
By JC w KC redux
Jul 1, 2013

My wife and I both thought this was a really fun route - some finger and hand jams at the start of p2, cool liebacking and mantles at the top. Josh is right on - after you pull the first 5.6 mantle the second 5.7 mantle is irresistible and very well protected.
By Logan Swartz
From: Davis, CA
Sep 9, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I recommend bringing doubles.
By Boriss
From: Sacramento
Apr 19, 2015

On pitch one avoid climbing the "L'" Flake, instead climb the corner to the left of it. At the top of the Flake you make a traverse left on some dangerously loose rocks. They are in direct view of your belayer and other approaching climbers.

Also the belay on the top of pitch 1 has a loose vertical block, avoid using it but if you do be careful.
By Austin Donisan
From: San Mateo, California
Apr 20, 2015

The SuperTopo guide book says the pitches are 50' and 120', but a 60m rope is too short to link them. Probably the first pitch is actually a bit longer.
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