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Getting towards the crux.
Some slab, body English, great finger locks, and an offwidth finish sum it up. Harvest would be a classic except for the bushes in the lower crack.
The climb starts in a lower angle V before going vertical in a flared chimney for a move or 2. The crack moves on to the face with the crux above the small roof where rattly fingers lead to a great hand jam and a desperate move (for me) into the offwidth.
Descend from slings around a chockstone.
Far North End on the West face of Window Rock. Look for the V crack with small bushes and the 4" crack finish.
Small to Medium Nuts and small cams(Purple and Green C3s). A #2 Camelot is nice for the pod after the crux. The offwidth protects with .75 Camelot in the back.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 29, 2008
This route is fricken' awesome, I have no idea why it isn't more popular. Perhaps the bushes in the crack at the bottom chase people away, but outside of that bit of climbing - the rest is superb.
Varied climbing, bomber gear, and stout climbing. Get on it. The crux is pretty dang physical, so get psyched.
Gear - Lots of thin gear (I placed many small to medium nuts) to a #2 or #3 camalot. I placed a #3 camalot (and took a nice whipper on it to :) in the pod, but a #2 would go in as well. Anchor takes either hand size gear or thin gear. No need for any big gear.
The rap anchor is a bit on the sketchy side, but it worked. Slung block. Probably worth adding some slings.
Sep 16, 2008
a stellar line, climb it in the shade!
From: Jackson, WY
May 13, 2009
Sweet climb! Well worth doing even with the bushes in the crack. Great variety of moves. The rock is just a bit dirty but with some traffic would be stellar. As for the sketchy block at the top, we traversed around the left side and rapped off bolts on some 5.6 on the east side.
|By Zuke Lackmann|
Mar 19, 2010
Incredible! In my opinion, one of the best trad lines at the City. Just a little deciduous at the bottom, but otherwise very clean. This climb has just about everything you could ask for - jungly liebacking, a few easy chimney moves, insecure fingers through a small alcove/roof, great hand jams, and just a little offwidth to finish it up. I'm not sure you'd need big gear for the offwidth at the top. I was able to slot a big stopper at the bottom of the offwidth.
From: Moab, UT
Aug 22, 2010
I don't think big gear is needed up top, either. If you brought it, you could probably use it, but really I don't think anything larger than a green camalot is needed for the route (could be useful for an anchor on top, though?). I'd bring small to medium stoppers, doubles or triples through fingers, a couple purple & green camalots, & runners. Rap slings are up the slab to the left. Felt nice & stout for the grade.
From: tacoma, toyota
Sep 23, 2010
I wouldn't really call it ofwidth at the top. By that point you have two great face jugs to pull on. No offwidth technique neccessary. Awesome route.
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
May 16, 2011
This route's crux is pretty burly. I found it more difficult than any single move on Singapore or Tiny Town. Two fixed nuts as of 5/16/11 in pretty convenient places. Hard to place the #2 camalot when your hand is in the pod.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 5, 2011
On 6/3/11, I sure didn't like the looks of the block all the anchor slings were slung around (the block wiggled a bit) so we slung a *much* larger block off to the left and used the biner from the "fixed" nut at the crux and an old locker of mine on the new anchor sling. Booty it if you want but definitely check out the old anchor block first--it's sketchy.
|By Kevin Volkening|
Jun 6, 2011
Onsighted Terror but had major problems on this one... Suggest more like 11a
Jul 21, 2011
Great route; its single crux move just below the pod felt like solid 11a to me. Definitely one of the best cracks in the City.
|By Ty Gregory|
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 9, 2012
HB #8 OS in the pocket. - we're not sport climbing here.
|By Mark SLC|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 26, 2012
One of the best and hardest 10ds at the city. And most folks will probably find the crux pretty tough at the grade. Outstanding.
There's an old metolius cam in the lower section of the upper crack. Got it to move but probably would need a second tool to clean it.