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Pull onto the arete from the right of the arete and climb up and left onto the face and into a flare with a huge horn (sling for pro). A tiny diagonal crack protects with a purple Alien or equivalent before pulling up and left into a different crack system. Follow discontinuous cracks up above the start to the top and to the sling on a tree- presently the sling has not links or rings, and the ledge needs to be cleaned of loose rock. Parties below made this impossible (unsafe) during the FA.
Just left of the gully for Mephistophiles
and Twilight Zone
, there is a tall section of wall with a tree growing very close to it. Almost directly behind the tree, there is a blunt arete at the entrance of the gully. On the right there are good holds.
A light rack to 3.5" a tiny cam was at the crux move protection on the FA. Gear will require some tinkering in spots, or be a little spaced apart.
By Mark Wyss
From: Phoenix, AZ
Aug 15, 2012
Just did this route today. Very dirty. Don't expect to see any chalk, lots of lichen though :). You definitely don't need gear to 3.5". I'm no trad pro, and I never used anything larger than a #1. Take a few shoulder length and a double length slings. As of today, the "anchor" is doable for a rap there is a good biner up there for it.