|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 150'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Luke Laeser, Jon Butler, 1995|
|Submitted By:||Jesse Zacher on Jan 30, 2007|
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By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Aug 19, 2007
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
FA: Luke Laeser, Jon Butler, 1995
Pitch 1: 5.10 R
Start up chossy, unprotected, but easier climbing through a Chinle layer up to a roof in better rock with a crack that can be protected. Pass the roof and gain a large ledge below the dihedral.
Pitch 2: 5.11
Move up the dihedral with some varied climbing from thin hands through an offwidth section. The climbing then steepens and moves through thin hands up to the body length roof. Pass the roof with hands, and turn the corner. Move up through some finger-sized moves and then through some hard moves where the crack is flaring, and gain the anchors.
Pitch 3: 5.10
Continue up the crack system through varied jamming. The crux of this pitch is off fingers and fingers. Gain a ledge on the right. Two double rope raps to the ground.
This climb is not as good as it looks from the ground. The first pitch is as loose as it looks. The second and third are not in the best quality Windgate. They have lots of loose and sandy rock. There is also an incredible amount of bird feces in the crack below the roof. Overall this climb is three pitches of the kind of desert climbing you usually reserve for reaching the top of a tower.
Pro: Singles in tips and an offwidth piece. Doubles in hand sizes. Triple in fingers up through tight hands.