Mountain Project: Climbing Gunnison

Living in Gunnnison, CO, I have noticed a peculiar absence of information on climbing in this area. The stellar climbing is often overshadowed by, of course, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Located four miles outside of Gunnison, Hartman Rocks is a great area for those interested in a multi-sport environment. It is a multi-use area with miles of off-road and mountain bike trails, free camping, and of course great rock climbing. The rock is a granite, often compared to J-tree, bomber in most areas and loose and crumbly in others. All types of climbing can be done here; however, it has mostly bolted routes (5.5-5.12+), great bouldering in the V-easy to V-hard range, with a few trad cracks thrown in for good measure. Most routes can be accessed from the parking areas of the crags with anchors for top-ropes too. Some classics include Buddha's Belly, Tiger Stripe Wall, and Super Slabs. The climbing community has been putting up routes here for years, but new opportunity abounds. If you see a line you want to try, if it can't go clean, bolting is not frowned upon. Ammenities can be found in Gunnison ranging from a KOA campground to restaurants and even a hospital! lol Rock and Roll Sports in Gunnison is a great place for beta (free climbing guide), and local climbers are friendly and a great source for info.

Getting There

Gunnison is located on US 50 between Salida and Montrose. Heading west out of town on US 50 (Tomichi) you will see a sign for Hartman Rocks (if you cross a bridge you've gone too far.) The KOA campground is shortly on the right and after about 2 miles you will see the entrance to the park on the right. Stay on the dirt road going up a heavily washboarded hill. Once at the top make your second left and the crags are located on the left (east) side of the road. There are numerous different areas to climb at, the first prominent pulloff on the left being the Buddha's Belly Area.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hartman Rocks:

Water Groove V3 R Boulder, 20 feet Kill Hill Bouldering Area : Water Groove Area (top of K...

White Lightning V3 Boulder, 15 feet Bouldering Areas : White Lightning Area

Quarter Inch Master V3+ Boulder, 15 feet Bouldering Areas : Quarter Inch Master Area

Jaws Arete V6 Boulder, 15 feet Bouldering Areas : Quarter Inch Master Area

Rimjob V7-8 Boulder, 20 feet Bouldering Areas : Quarter Inch Master Area

Ferringy 5.7 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Beginner's Slab

Devil's Spine aka Bajorn 5.7 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Beginner's Slab

Pinnacle Gully - Wowie Zowie 5.8 Sport, 50 feet Little Finger aka Penis Roc...

Neutral Zone 5.9 Trad, 60 feet Groove Rock aka Leap of Fai...

Watching in Silence 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Rock 'N Roll Wall

Cardassian 5.9 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Beginner's Slab

Shape Shifter 5.10a Trad, 40 feet Super Slabs

Best Crack 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet, Grade II Best Crack Wall

Keating Beating 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet Super Slabs

Buddha's Belly 5.10 Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet Buddha's Belly Wall

Little Finger aka Penis Rock - South Face 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 20 feet Little Finger aka Penis Roc...

Laughing Buddha 5.10c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Buddha's Belly Wall

The Pink Nipple 5.10d Trad, 40 feet Super Slabs

Crystal Ship 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Tiger Wall

Cobra Strike 5.14b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Project Wall

Comments on Hartman Rocks

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 13, 2013

By Terry Fisher
Jul 28, 2002

Most of the information that I have comes from a free guide that can be found at Rock n Roll sports in Gunnison. If any information is incorrect or lacking please feel free to change or add in anyway.

By Terry Fisher
Aug 26, 2002

OOPS!!!! I have referred on several ocasions to "Hell Hill" which is the first big hill you come too after turning into the park, my apologies the actual name is "Kill Hill" for those of you who care anyway lol.

By Chris Cavallaro
May 25, 2004

LAKE CITY: I am hoping to ask about any new routes in the area of Lake City. I used to live in the area for years, and know how to get to Gods Crag from directions on stoneseeker.com. I am taking a trip to Lake city this weekend, and I'm bringing some new climbers.

Are there any new areas you could advise me on that would have softer climbs? Are there any new 5.8-5.11 climbs near Gods Crag?

Any information much appreciated!

By MB
Sep 19, 2005

Great place to climb!!! just went there last weekend and had an awesome time.. great bouldering.. also you can camp right next to the rocks where you climb so its real nice... also many many rocks there to do and could easily spend a week there climbing, also its right outside of Gunnison so it's real quick to the food and what-not

By Joseph Stover
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 4, 2006

Is there any way to get some more beta on this and close by areas? What about guide books? I am specifically interested in sport 5.7-5.11 and bouldering V0-V6. Does anyone have some digital Topos or any other info?

By John Peterson
Jun 14, 2006

The best guide (at the moment) for this area is Cowan's guide, available at Rock and Roll. I'm taking all of my information from that as I add routes. Unfortunately this guide doesn't have topos, and the route descriptions don't always line up so some of the routes will probably be misnamed. Sorry.

If you're climbing in Gunny, your first stop should be Rock and Roll. You'll get expert advice, find any gear you may need, and get beta on crags that aren't listed in any guide. Go there.

By Will Anglin
From: Sykesville, MD
Nov 1, 2007

Pick up the new guidebook at Rock and Roll Sports. First true guide for the area.

By Luke Mehall
From: Durango, Colorado
May 12, 2009

Hey, y'all be sure to check out 24 Hours of Gunnison Glory, the first 24 hour climbing festival in the west. It will be at Hartmans on the 27th and 28th of June. Check our website at:

www.gunnisonriverfestival.com/glory.html

or give me a call 970-943-7053 or email: lmehall@western.edu

By Will Anglin
From: Sykesville, MD
Apr 7, 2010

For updated info on this years (2010) 24 Hours of Gunnison Glory check out www.gunnisonglory.com

By Jasonn
From: Plattsburgh, NY
May 12, 2010

Whoo, I'll be there.

By Alec Solimeo
May 19, 2011

www.gunnisonglory.com
BRINGS live music to the natural rock ampitheatre within Hartman Rocks Recreation Area...come check it out!!!

By Laura Fremgen
From: Taos, New Mexico
Apr 13, 2013

Just wanted to add that the road to get to Hartman can be a little rough. I took a Subaru up there, and it struggled in a few places. Would recommend good tires and good clearance for whatever vehicle you take!

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Hartman Rocks

Description

Getting There

The Classics