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Harkonnen Castle

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Harkonnen Castle Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: J. Hickok on May 16, 2002
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Panorama from the top of Harkonnen Castle.

  • Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/roc... -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Looking north from the road towards the formation, the Harkonnen Castle can not be mistaken as the largest and primary formation north of Owl Rock. There is an obvious splitter on the face, which is the middle section of this free climb.

    Climbers likely looked at this potential line, but it did not see an ascent until fall 2001 by Dave Mealey and Aaron Boyles. They named the first, and currently the only, route on the formation: Dune ... after the novel by Frank Herbert. The name of the formation, although not so much a tower as a castle, is also from the the novel. Looking around the formation it may be unlikely that the Harkonnen Castle provides any more decent lines.


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    Consolidated comments from David Mealey regarding the FA:
    Did the FA on 9-11-01 while the twin towers were falling. There is no approach at all for this 400' of entrada fun. Has a beautiful 2nd pitch splitter and a nice 3rd pitch OW.Definitely worth a half day.

    We gave this the route a 5.10 rating. We did it in five pitches. The first pitch is a little heady but not as bad as it looks. The rap is off the north east side. It's two raps to the lower slabs then you can walk down the slabs from there.
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    (Disclaimer: have not climbed the route, but only am documenting the formation.)

    Getting There 

    Follow the main Arches road all the way to Balanced Rock. As you are passing Balanced Rock, the Harkonnen Castle is the large, long formation looking towards the La Sal mountain range. Continue past Balanced Rock and make the right turn towards the Windows section of Arches.

    This road follows the edge of the formation and the Harkonnen Castle becomes more obvious as it looms over the road on the right. An obvious nipple-like formation resides north and lower than the primary summit located at the south end of the tower formation. As the road wraps around the formation Owl Rock comes into view, and if you pass the Garden of Eden turnoff which leads to the Owl, you have gone too far. Park about 200 yards before the Owl Rock turn. The south face looks towards Owl Rock and the Garden of Eden parking lot.

    Climbing Season

    For the Arches National Park area.

    Weather station 1.1 miles from here

    1 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Harkonnen Castle

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Harkonnen Castle:
    Grumpies   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 270'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Harkonnen Castle

    Featured Route For Harkonnen Castle
    Rock Climbing Photo: Lower Topo

    Grumpies 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13  UT : Moab Area : ... : Harkonnen Castle
    Approach:Park at the first or second pullout west of the Garden of Garden of Eden parking area. Hike on slickrock and small washes to a slab with two bolts at the top. This slab is located west of the saddle between the Ham and the summit.Climb the slab to the two bolts, 20 feet of 5.3. Once at the top, traverse on a grassy ledge east to a easy class 3 crack which takes you to a short class 4 slickrock ramp 100 yards east of the saddle. At the top of the class 4 slickrock ramp, walk on a sli...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

    Photos of Harkonnen Castle Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: P2 splitter & P3 OW
    P2 splitter & P3 OW
    Rock Climbing Photo: The Harkonnan Castle from owl rock
    BETA PHOTO: The Harkonnan Castle from owl rock
    Rock Climbing Photo: Leading P1 during FA
    BETA PHOTO: Leading P1 during FA
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ham Rock as seen from Owl Rock.
    Ham Rock as seen from Owl Rock.

    Comments on Harkonnen Castle Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jan 8, 2004
    Gear Alert
    Jimmy Dunn did this tower early 2003 & recommends it.
    By David Mealey
    From: Moab,Utah
    Jan 23, 2009
    Did the FA on 9-11-01 while the twin towers were falling. There is no approach at all for this 400' of entrada fun. Has a beautiful 2nd pitch splitter and a nice 3rd pitch OW.Definitely worth a half day.
    By Tristan Higbee
    From: Ogden, UT
    Feb 19, 2009
    Checked out this route when I was in Arches last weekend. Looks rad! I'd like some more info on it. What's it rated? How many pitches? Descent?
    By David Mealey
    From: Moab,Utah
    Jul 28, 2009
    We gave this the route a 5.10 rating. We did it in five pitches. The first pitch is a little heady but not as bad as it looks. The rap is off the north east side. It's two raps to the lower slabs then you can walk down the slabs from there.
    By Jamie Princo
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 25, 2012
    derek wolfe and i climbed a different route today to ham rock's("harkonnen castle") true summit. we climbed from the north to the 5.8+ bulge to the saddle between the ham and the main summit and worked our way around to the 5.6/5.7 dirty west chimney. from there it's an easy cruise to the summit.

    we saw the 3-bolt anchor for the 5.10 route on the sub-summit across the large gash. our question is has anyone been to the true summit previously? it certainly didn't look that way.

    jamie

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