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Sugarloaf, East Face
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Harding's Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 435'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1954.
Page Views: 2,483
Submitted By: Blitzo on Feb 17, 2007
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Description 

This Sugarloaf classic climbs the chimney and crack system to the summit of the south pinnacle.
Climb a ramp and blocky rock up the right side of The Fang, to an alcove.
Climb a 5.7 chimney to a good belay.
Move up and left to another chimney and follow it to a belay ledge in the South Notch.
From the north end of the notch, climb a 5.7 arch to it's top. Turn the corner and follow a trough to a cave beneath the summit.
Continue to the summit.


Protection 

Pro to 3.5".



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By Josh Cameron
Feb 23, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R

I've always wanted to lead this, but never did because of the horror stories I've heard of this climb. As a result, I always climbed Scheister instead. Now, after leading the notorious chimney pitch, I'd say if you are confident in chimneys then it's not all that bad. In fact, I found it easier than Scheister's chimney. There is always a good edge or a knob for your hands or feet right where you need it. In fact, I found the pitch after the chimney to be the hardest one on the climb.

By Nick Sullens
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Dec 16, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R

Probably R rated, the chimney is low angle after the crux bulge, but there is no gear for the rest of the pitch, if you were to blow it then a hospital trip would be likely.

By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Feb 16, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R

I thought the crux was passing the bulge after turning the roof. Unless you bring a#4 Big Bro, there is no pro after the roof pitons until the anchor (apart from a tiny cam in a thin flake near the very end).

With a well-placed #4 Big Bro, climb is probably PG13, without a #4 Big Bro, it seemed like an R, although the climbing does get easier and more secure as you get higher. I found it best to change sides just above the crux, which was a tad spooky to do.

By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Nov 15, 2013

I led this years ago without any big pro. If you're confident in your chimney technique then you'll no doubt enjoy this climb. If not.......