Harding's Chimney 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 435 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Warren Harding, John Ohrenschall, 1954. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Feb 17, 2007 |
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Description This Sugarloaf classic climbs the chimney and crack system to the summit of the south pinnacle. Climb a ramp and blocky rock up the right side of The Fang, to an alcove. Climb a 5.7 chimney to a good belay. Move up and left to another chimney and follow it to a belay ledge in the South Notch. From the north end of the notch, climb a 5.7 arch to it's top. Turn the corner and follow a trough to a cave beneath the summit. Continue to the summit.
Protection Pro to 3.5".
| Comments on Harding's Chimney |
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By Josh Cameron Feb 23, 2012 rating: 5.7 R
| I've always wanted to lead this, but never did because of the horror stories I've heard of this climb. As a result, I always climbed Scheister instead. Now, after leading the notorious chimney pitch, I'd say if you are confident in chimneys then it's not all that bad. In fact, I found it easier than Scheister's chimney. There is always a good edge or a knob for your hands or feet right where you need it. In fact, I found the pitch after the chimney to be the hardest one on the climb. |
By Nick Sullens From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong Dec 16, 2012 rating: 5.7 R
| Probably R rated, the chimney is low angle after the crux bulge, but there is no gear for the rest of the pitch, if you were to blow it then a hospital trip would be likely. |
By Mark P Thomas From: Oakland Feb 16, 2013 rating: 5.7 R
| I thought the crux was passing the bulge after turning the roof. Unless you bring a#4 Big Bro, there is no pro after the roof pitons until the anchor (apart from a tiny cam in a thin flake near the very end). With a well-placed #4 Big Bro, climb is probably PG13, without a #4 Big Bro, it seemed like an R, although the climbing does get easier and more secure as you get higher. I found it best to change sides just above the crux, which was a tad spooky to do. |
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