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Nautilus
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Unsorted Routes:

Harder Than Your Husband 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: TR: Kevin & Barbara Bein, Lead: Steve Petro
Page Views: 3,164
Submitted By: Justin Edl on Apr 9, 2006
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Just showin' off. Beautiful climb!

Description 

This is a very stiff and beautiful line, accentuated by the lovely lichen covered water streaks on either side. It is quite overhanging with two cruxes, hardest right off the ground, then another after the handjam pods. This is a groovy climb, the only standout line on the boulder it resides on. It shuts most everyone down. Do it!


Location 

On the biggest boulder down and to the left from Finally, which is the most obvious line facing the western parking lot for The Nautilus. On this boulder, it's on the side facing The Nautilus.


Protection 

Good, though it looks bleak in spots. Green to red Aliens, can get a #3 Camalot in the flare up top. Bolts up top, pull the lip!



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By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 10, 2006

I'm not positive... but I think this route was originally done by Todd Skinner.

By Justin Edl
Apr 10, 2006

That is possible John, but talking with locals it can be credited to one of the following: Steve Petro, Todd Skinner, Paul Piana. I don't imagine Paul Piana, given his propensity to censor names put in his guide books on climbs up around Lander, would have named it 'Harder Than Your Husband', but then again original names don't always catch on. Always the topic of local debate, many of the hard climbs from the eighties and early nineties have been credited to various sources at various times. Thus I left it "?". In either case a beautiful line that sees WAY more failures than successes.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Apr 10, 2006

Orenzak's book says Piana in 1983. Don't know for certain though. At this point I can't even see the moves to get off the ground.

By Justin Edl
Apr 10, 2006

Brian, if you look carefully there was a big crystal about the size of your thumb that used to reside up a little on the left side of the crack. Bob Scarpelli says this is a lot harder now that that crystal is gone, and he did it both with and without the crystal. Whoever said Bob couldn't climb thin cracks! I can't imagine how hard this thing must be for him given the size of his meathooks, an especially impressive feat.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Apr 27, 2006

I'm not saying the moves aren't there, I mean the necessary moves to do it in its present condition in fact transcend my understanding of rock climbing. It mind boggling, to me, that various Vedauwoo regulars have done it free, on lead no less. I can climb stand and deliver, drop a toprope over this and hang there looking stupid, but I absolutely cannot climb it.

By Justin Edl
Jun 7, 2008

I believe any controversy over who did the FA is brought up because Paul apparently couldn't lead it clean and while Paul was still trying for the FA Steve Petro did the first actual redpoint of the route with all gear on lead.