|The Cookie Cliff
Two great pitches would be classic if for better rock.
P1. Squeeze up the flake and jam the wide slot to the bulge where you can get sliver down to gold Camalot size pro and jams. Now it gets kind of exciting (spooky). The crack is actually part of a detached slab with some loose/vibrating (ohhh) flakes. At a point that is hard to describe, place gear high with a sling and bust out a cool face move up and right to join the upper crack. Its kind of a blocky flake/crack that actually takes good gear where you need it. Continue to lieback and jam as it steepens and culminates with a reach to a jug. (11a PG-13)
P2. A must do!! Enter the alcove where an awesome yellow Alien size wavy splitter (with feet) goes up (crux). Lock it up to a roof/slot type thingie and jam it to a jug...Cool picture of Bachar solo here, in some old mag...Get up into the sharp corner with the widening crack. Blue Camalot to C4 #4 Camalot size jams follows and using your honed, typical Valley fist/OW corner technique will get you up to a sloping ledge and an ant-infested tree with rap slings.
Left of Crack-A-Go-Go.
Nuts. Double set cams from green Alien to C4 #4 Camalot sizes. 70M rope will work to rap off...Watch your ends.
|By Greg Smith|
From: Canon City, CO
Jul 31, 2007
I guess I think it is just a safe and well protected pitch as well, not PG-13
|By Nick Stayner|
From: The Magic City
May 7, 2009
Give me a break! Perfect gear, coming from someone who likes to sew it up! No PG-13, and pretty full-on for 11a!
From: San Jose
Jan 11, 2010
I remember for second pitch I used all pieces yellow aliens size I had (4) and 2 #4 Friend.
Other gear was standard ruck up to#3 cam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 15, 2011
on P1, You can get a #1 camalot behind the very top of the flake thing before you make the traverse move out right for the crack switch. Extend it with a shoulder (maybe a little longer than a normal shoulder length) and the drag shouldn't be too bad. The 20 feet leading up to that is kinda manky pro on that flake though. At one point I placed red aliens on both sides and clipped them together hoping that if I fell, opposition would squeeze the flake together rather than push it out of the way... not really sure that would have worked but it was worth a shot. Sick that the pitch is about 34 meters!
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Dec 12, 2011
It is possible to protect the traverse either with a big cam (#4 C4) or something smaller and deep. There is a 5-10 foot section lower down where you are climbing a fully detached pillar. Best to place gear at the bottom and then higher up you can place gear very deep(behind the loose stuff). Luckily the climbing in that section is only 5.9
Jan 7, 2012
p1 cleaned: Mark Chapman, 1973 FA: Jim Orey, Charlie Porter, 1973
p2 FA: Henry Barber, Ron Kauk, Steve Wunsch, 5/1975
|By Jeff Scheuerell|
Feb 2, 2012
I will second Luke's comments. Protect before and after the questionable section. Also use your feet and don't pull out. Just because you can sew it up doesn't necessarily make it safe. I have not tested that section of rock nor do I plan to, I consider it questionable and climb delicately through. I also climb high before the traverse, place a #3 with an extra long sling, step down, then traverse.
Use your feet well on the upper section or you will flame out. I have seen several folks blow it on the last move before the anchor.
|By Nick Sullens|
From: Yosemite/ Bend
Feb 8, 2013
I remember the Supertopo says small to 3 inches or something like this for the second pitch so I headed up with only gear up to 3 inches! I definitely do NOT recommend this to anyone, as I had to walk my #3 until it wouldn't fit anymore, which still left me with about 30 feet to go before the top with no gear, spooky.