2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Upstream from Castle Rock, cross the log jam, head up hill then bear right along the cliff band, maybe 50 yards, then head back towards the creek a bit. The problem starts under the egg shaped boulder. Pull over the lip, mantle and top out.
Got on this one today. It was a lot of fun. I could not figure the beta to get my body over the lip yet. Seems there may be a few good ways to do this one, but I just could never make total since of the moves to get one's self mounted up on the up part of the wall!!? Just day one though.... hopefully a few more visits and I will send.
F.Y.I. I a decent place to cross to river that is close to the problem. It's a log jam that was ok to cross and made access much easier. But as usual be careful if you walk the logs as I did... you could take a spill of even get hurt!!!
I heard that the start of this problem has broken? As in... it fell apart?!? I seem to remember the starting holds being quite solid but since I've not been back to confirm this Intel - I was wondering if anyone else has heard about or can confirm the broken starting hold(s) information. Thanks
I wonder which sidepull you are talking about. Most ascents go RH to the lip. I easily pulled off the original LH hold leaving a very solid small LH edge/undercling. I'm surprised to hear that might be flexing and wonder if it is actually the same one.
Start matched on the low fin, RH to a pinchy crimp on the obvious little block, punch left to a small incut edge, RH to the obvious edge just over the lip, reach LH to a bad sloping, pockety edge, move right to the horizontal crimps, match, left foot over, reach for the sidepull LH and stand up.