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Hard Yakka 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: DeC&JSt
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 431
Submitted By: doug cornick on Nov 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Paul Bowron scrambling up after Lynn Butterfield ...

Description 

1st 10 ft still a little loose..,but protected by low 1st bolt.

Location 

start under small roof.

Protection 

anchors with biners. short runout after crux can be protected with medium sized gear.


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By jbak
Dec 26, 2010

May be harder now that Joe broke a hold at the crux. Weird bolt placement at the top.
By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I also found the bolting to be a bit odd. I thought there was a bit of a move at the bolt that ends the runout. Admittedly I didn't look for gear options.
By Queen LaTufa
From: tucson, az
Jan 20, 2013

If you're afraid of heights, there is a REALLY LONG runout to the first bolt above the ledge. I protected with a cam, but someone heavier than myself might not want to trust gear there. And there's a really hard scary way to clip that bolt or the easy not-so-scary way. I tried them both and would highly recommend the easy way.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 1, 2015

The bottom of this is pretty grainy. If it got as much traffic as the upper wall routes do it would be a lot more fun. Very challenging at the grade. Stay left to get the upper headwall bolt clipped and it isn't too hard. Another bolt would be nice.
By Jimbo
Apr 13, 2016

I got on this again today. Something definitely changed since we put it up. It's got nothing to do with .11a Closer to .11d now. Not sure what broke where but it's not the same climb we posted in 2010.

I had no issues with the run out after the crux. Easy climbing and there is a huge side pull that makes the clip casual.

I will admit if I drilled this today a would put the first bolt on the upper head wall a lot lower and add another before the anchor. I'm not sure enough people climb here for me to bother to fix it.

The reason the bolt is out so far right is to give you a bit more room to fall as the ledge slopes down to the right.

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